Climbing route

A climbing route is a special path that climbers use to reach the top of a mountain, a rock face, or an ice-covered obstacle. Climbers write down these routes in guidebooks or online so others can find and try them.

Each route has important details, like what kind of climbing it is—such as bouldering, sport climbing, or ice climbing—and how hard it is. Climbers also note how long the route is, how many sections or "pitches" it has, and what kind of safety gear is needed.

There are special achievements tied to climbing routes, like the first time someone completes the route. After a route is first climbed, others might try new and harder ways to do it. These new ways can include climbing much faster or without any safety ropes.

Climbers also talk about things like naming routes and how much safety equipment should be placed on a route. These conversations help climbers decide what is fair and safe when they try new routes.

Details recorded

Climbing routes are usually recorded in climbing guidebooks, journals like the American Alpine Journal or the Himalayan Journal, and online databases such as MountainProject.com. These records include important details about the route.

Key details include the climbing area or "crag", such as El Capitan in the US or Verdon Gorge in France. Each route has a name, and the type of rock or ice it is on, like limestone or water ice. Guidebooks often show a drawing or photo of the route, called a "topo". The length of the route is noted, from short bouldering routes to very long big wall climbing routes, which are split into sections called "pitches".

Other details include what kind of climb it is and what equipment is needed, how difficult it is, and how long it might take. Guidebooks also note who first climbed the route and how popular it is among climbers.

Route terminology

Main article: Glossary of climbing terms

Climbers have different ways to reach the top of a mountain or rock face, and these paths are called climbing routes. In rock climbing, routes can be different based on the challenges they offer. Some routes follow cracks in the rock. Others are on flat, sloping rock surfaces with small holds for hands and feet. Some routes are on vertical rock faces, while others lean back at sharp angles, making them very hard to climb.

In mountaineering, routes can include mixtures of rock, ice, and snow. The easiest route to the top of a mountain is often called the normal route. Climbers may also try to climb along ridges or faces of the mountain, which can be very long and tough. Some of the hardest routes are on the north faces of mountains, where there is more ice and snow and harsh weather.

Debates about routes

In the past, climbers who first reached the top of a hard path could name it. But some of these names were not fair or kind, causing trouble. In 2020, people talked about changing these names so everyone feels respected. Groups like the American Alpine Club made new rules to help pick better names for these paths.

Some climbers change the rocks to make climbing simpler, which can cause disagreement. Indoors, climbing paths are made on walls for safety and competition. There are also talks about using fixed safety gear on outdoor paths, with some people worried it might make climbing too easy or hurt nature.

Notable routes

Rock climbing

Main articles: List of grade milestones in rock climbing and Traditional climbing § Hardest routes

Some famous routes for climbing on small rocks include Midnight Lightning in California and Dreamtime in Switzerland. Other well-known routes are Gioia in Italy, and Burden of Dreams in Finland.

Two famous routes for climbing on tall walls are Action Directe in Germany and Realization/Biographie in France. Other famous routes on tall walls include Jumbo Love in Nevada and Silence in Norway.

Traditional climbing routes include Grand Illusion in Lake Tahoe, and The Phoenix in Yosemite. Other famous routes are Cobra Crack in Canada and Rhapsody in Britain.

Big wall routes include The Nose on El Capitan, and Salathé Wall on the same mountain. Other famous routes are on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and the Aiguille du Dru in France.

Ice climbing

Main articles: Ice climbing § Evolution of grade milestones, Mixed climbing § Evolution of grade milestones, and Dry-tooling § Evolution of grade milestones

Famous ice climbing routes include Gimme Shelter and Riptide in the Canadian Rockies, and Repentance Super in the Val di Cogne in Italy. In Canada, Mission to Mars is a very hard route.

Mixed climbing routes include Octopussy, which started mixed climbing. Other routes include Reptile in Colorado, and Iron Man in Switzerland.

Dry tooling routes include Bichette Light in France, and routes in the Tomorrow's World Cave in the Dolomites in Italy.

Mountaineering

Main article: Alpine climbing § Milestones

One famous route is the 1938 Heckmair Route on the north face of the Eiger. Famous routes outside the Alps include climbs on Latok I, The Ogre, Changabang, and Jannu.

Famous expedition routes are on very tall mountains called eight-thousanders in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. Famous routes include the "Rupal Face" on Nanga Parbat and the "Magic Line" on K2's southwest pillar.