Cuernavaca

Cuernavaca is the capital and largest city of the state of Morelos in Mexico. It is one of the possible origins of the Mesoamerican civilization, with important Olmec artworks found nearby. The city lies south of Mexico City, about a 90-minute drive away on the Federal Highway 95D.

The name Cuernavaca comes from the Nahuatl words meaning 'surrounded by or close to trees'. Over time, different people gave the city various names. It is known for its warm weather and green landscapes, earning it the nickname "City of Eternal Spring". Many people from Mexico City visit or have homes there because it is close and beautiful. The area has attracted many international visitors and students who come to learn the Spanish language.

The city

City of Eternal Spring

Cuernavaca is sometimes called the "City of Eternal Spring." This name comes from a traveler named Alexander von Humboldt who wrote about the area in 1810. The city has a warm, comfortable climate, staying between 21–26 °C (70–79 °F) most of the year. It is located on the slope of a mountain range, where warm air rises in the morning and cooler air comes down in the afternoon. The city is known for its beautiful flowers, like the bougainvillea.

Because of its nice weather and scenery, many important people have lived in Cuernavaca over the years. This includes royalty, nobles, and even leaders from other countries. The city has attracted people who enjoy its pleasant climate and natural beauty.

Cuernavaca metropolitan area

Cuernavaca has long been a favorite place for people from Mexico City to visit and relax. In the 1940s, the city's pleasant climate began to draw foreigners as well. The area grew quickly from the 1960s onward. Today, the metropolitan area includes several nearby towns such as Emiliano Zapata, Jiutepec, Temixco, Tepoztlán, and Xochitepec. As of 2015, the metropolitan area had over 900,000 people, with about 366,000 living in Cuernavaca itself.

Many people from Mexico City now have second homes in Cuernavaca to escape the busy city life. Some have even moved there permanently. This growth has brought economic benefits but has also challenged the city's resources and infrastructure. Most of Cuernavaca's housing is for middle-income families, while lower-income housing is found closer to the city center.

History

Indigenous peoples

Burials from around 1000 BCE were found in Gualupita, north of Cuernavaca.

The Tlahuica, a Nahuatl-speaking people, were the first major culture to live in this area. Their main settlement was where Cuernavaca is today. The Tlahuicas lived here since at least the 12th century. The Matlatzincas were also in this region as late as the 19th century.

People from the Valley of Mexico first moved south into this area in the 12th century. A lord named King Xolotl conquered most of the Valley of Mexico. An allied Chichimeca tribe also moved south, making Techintecuitla the lord of the Cuauhnahuac area. In 1365, the lord of Cuauhnahuac tried to conquer lands near the Valley of Mexico but was stopped by the lord of Chalco. Cuauhnahuac grew to rule most of what is now western Morelos.

The first Aztec emperor began expanding his empire south in the 1370s. His successor wanted to continue into Morelos because of the cotton grown there. After being rejected in marriage, this led to a war that ended with an Aztec victory in 1396. The conquered area was renamed Cuauhnahuac by the Aztecs. The local leaders worked with the Aztecs through marriages and ceremonies.

Spanish Conquest and colonization

At the time of the Spanish Conquest, Itzohuatzin governed Cuauhnahuac. It was a rich city with many farms. The Spanish, led by Gonzalo de Sandoval and later Hernán Cortés, marched on Cuernavaca before taking the Aztec capital. They destroyed bridges to enter the city, pillaged it, and burned it before moving on. The Spanish had trouble pronouncing the city's name and changed it to Cuernavaca.

Cortés returned in 1523 and founded his favorite residence there. His wife lived in a palace built in 1526. The Franciscans arrived in 1529 and built a monastery and chapel, which later became the Cuernavaca Cathedral.

Independence to Revolution

During the Mexican War of Independence, José María Morelos was imprisoned in Cuernavaca in 1815. After independence, the area became part of the State of Mexico. Cuernavaca was declared a city in 1834.

During the Mexican-American War, Cuernavaca was captured by U.S. forces. During the Reform War, President Juarez used Cuernavaca as a base during the French Intervention. When French forces took over, Maximilian I made the Borda Garden his summer residence.

The State of Morelos was created in 1869, with Cuernavaca as its capital. A highway and rail connection were built in the late 19th century.

Mexican Revolution and 20th century

During the Mexican Revolution, Emiliano Zapata took control of Cuernavaca in 1911. The city later fell to government forces, and Zapata began attacking Cuernavaca again in 1914.

Wealthy people from North America and Europe built homes in Cuernavaca and spent time there. In the 1920s and 1930s, Cuernavaca became a popular place for vacations. A casino attracted famous people, but gambling was stopped in 1934.

21st century

A large earthquake in 2017 damaged many buildings in Cuernavaca. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the city had to close restaurants and bars and set curfews. The city needed more space for burials because cemeteries were full.

Points of interest

Palace of Cortés

The Palacio de Cortés is east of the Morelos Garden and is considered the most representative building of Cuernavaca. Built by Hernán Cortés, it was finished in 1535. It is one of the oldest European-style, civil constructions in the Americas, but is executed in Renaissance style. The series of arches of the central terrace, the battlements, and the thick walls are the most representative aspects of the original construction. It is said that this residence looks much like the mansion built in Santo Domingo by Diego Colón, the son of Christopher Columbus. Just outside the front of the building is an old pyramid base over which Cortés had the structure built, on a hill that dominated the old city. Petroglyphs recovered from the site and from throughout the city are on display. From right to left the petroglyphs are named Lagarto de San Antón, Aguila de Chapultepec, Piedra Chimalli, or Piedra de los Encantos.

After having been the residence of Cortés and his descendants for several centuries, the building became a warehouse, a jail, a military barracks, and then the State Government Palace (until 1969). From 1971 to 1973, the building was restored extensively and today houses the Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, dedicated to the history of Morelos State. It often is referred to as "the Palacio of Cortes". It has ten exhibit halls with maps, illustrations, photographs, works of art, and everyday items from various epochs representing the first human settlements in the state to the present day. It has murals created by Diego Rivera that reflect both Morelos and Mexican history. Adjacent to the Palacio a permanent local handicraft market in which one may purchase silver jewelry, T-shirts, beaded bracelets, pottery, hammocks, blankets, and much more.

Morelos and Juárez Gardens

The Juárez and Morelos Gardens are in the center of the city, both of which are plazas lined with trees. Between the two is the State Government Palace, a three-story building with a tezontle façade built between 1955 and 1969. The Morelos Garden dates from 1908 and is easily recognizable by the large stone statue of José María Morelos, which is known colloquially as "Morelotes". The Juárez Garden is located to the north of the State Government Palace and is the oldest public square in Cuernavaca. The Garden contains a kiosk sometimes said to be designed by Gustave Eiffel and brought from Britain toward the end of the 19th century. Unlike most main squares in Mexico, neither of these open up the way to the main cathedral. The main cathedral in Cuernavaca is located a few blocks west of the square.

These two gardens or plazas are known colloquially as the "zócalo". Spectacles are often to be seen here and can include people dancing the "danzón" or other popular dances and "estudiantinas" dressed in colonial-era Spanish garb, playing instruments and dancing, and any number of free concerts. Often clowns perform on the zocalo as well, with balloons and tricks for the children and tell double-entendre jokes for the adults. Locals use the plazas to sell products such as honey, yogurt, traditional candies, and crafts. Street food such as corn on the cob, snow cones, candies, fruit smoothies, and more generally are available.

Cathedral

Cuernavaca Cathedral is the main church of what was the monastery of the Third Order of the Franciscans, called La Asunción, that dates back to the 16th century. It sits on the southeast corner of a large atrium, which also contains a number of other chapels that were built at different times and with different architectural styles. This complex is located at the intersection of Hidalgo and Morelos streets, a few blocks west of the town center.

The cathedral was built by Cortés to double as a fortress, with cannons mounted above the buttresses. Over time, this church underwent a number of transformations, updating its interior. This was undone in the mid-20th century, when restoration work removed all the Neoclassical altars and images. These now are stored in the cathedral's pinacotheca and not available to the public. Restoration work uncovered al fresco murals on the lateral walls, relating to the martyrdom of Philip of Jesus, the first Mexican canonized as a saint. The only other decoration inside this church now is a modern-style crucifix and an image of the Assumption of Mary. This restoration work was carried out by Bishop Sergio Méndez Arceo.

After the Reform Laws in the 1860s, most of the monastery property passed into state, then private hands, leaving only what is now the cathedral and several smaller chapels on a very large atrium. The Revolution Garden was the orchard of the Cathedral, and the cloister with its observatory, is now the Robert Brady Museum. The church became the Cathedral of Cuernavaca in 1891.

Next to the cathedral is the "open chapel" (capilla abierta) of San José, which is an original structure built in the 16th century. It also was rescued and restored by Bishop Méndez Arceo and is one of the oldest constructions on the site. The building consists of a vault with three arches that face the atrium. These arches are supported by a pair of flying buttresses. Inside the arches is an altarpiece dating from the 17th century.

The main entrance is on Hidalgo Street, where one passes between two large chapels called the Chapel of Santa Cruz and the Chapel of the Tercera Orden. The Tercera Orden is considered to be the more valuable artistically of the two, with its highly sculpted early Baroque main and side portals painted in various colors. Inside, there is a later Churrigueresque main altar. A third chapel, called the Chapel of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores is farther into the atrium and near the Open Chapel of San José. The bell tower was added in 1713. The cathedral was damaged during the September 2017 earthquake, but it has since been restored.

Other churches of interest

• Parish of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (El Sagrario) was built as a family chapel by Manuel de la Borda in the 18th century. The façade is Baroque, but it has greatly deteriorated in recent years due to acid rain. The cupola is particularly noteworthy.
• Parish of Los Tres Reyes Magos in Tetela was built in the 16th century by Franciscan monks. It is Baroque style, and there is a fresco inside painted by Marcos Aldaña. The stone fence around the perimeter of the church was designed by British sculptor John Spencer in the 1980s.
• El Calvario refers to two buildings just north of the Historic Center of Cuernavaca. The smaller is a chapitel (open-air chapel) built in 1538 at what was then the entrance to the city. It gets its name from the cross on top. There is a fountain in front called Fuente de los Leones or Fuente de las Ranas. In 1772 the chapitel was dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, and there is a large fair every 12 December. The larger building is the church of San Jose, built in 1939.
• The Church of Tepetates, built in the 16th century at the time of the conquest of Cuauhnáhuac, was named after the type of soil found in the area. It is located off Guerrero Street in the old district of Tecoac, which was one of the five neighborhoods that made up the center of the City of Cuernavaca. For years it was the symbol of the city due to its picturesque façade flanked by two cypresses. This temple is designed in neoclassic style, dedicated to Jesus of Nazareth. The church a small atrium, an open chapel, and a nave in addition to two bells that date from 1791. Fr. William Wasson founded the orphanage Nuestros Pequeños Hermanos here in 1954. It is believed the church was built upon a teocalli (Prehispanic temple).
• Santuario de Tlaltenango. Temple of San José is said to be the first church built in the American continent (1523) on the grounds of Hernán Cortés's hacienda. Next to this is the larger Sanctuary of Our Lady of Tlaltenango built in honor of the "Virgin of Miracles" in 1730. The largest belltower in Morelos was built in 1886. There is a large street fair every 8 September. A few blocks away is the Chapel of San Jerónimo, built during the second half of the 16th century, for the common people since masses in the Church of San José were officiated only for the wealthy.
• Parish of St. John the Apostle, built in the 18th century (Chapultepec). There is an image of el Señor de las Batallas, a representation of Christ as a soldier in honor of soldiers from the State of Morelos.
• Parish of San Luis Obispo (Amatitlan), built in the 17th century. The church is run by Franciscans.
• Parish of San Miguel Arcangel, built in the 18th century. (Acapantzingo)
• Church of San Nicolás Tolentino, built in the 16th century. (Ahuatepec). On the right side of the church there is a mausoleum with the remains of the revolutionary general Antonio Barona, companion of Emiliano Zapata, who was killed by rival general Genovevo de la O.
• Church of San Lorenzo Mártir, built in the 16th century. (Chamilpa)
• Church of El Divino Salvador a Baroque church built by Franciscans in the 16th century (Ocotepec). During the 1914 Siege of Cuernavaca, the people of the town donated the bells so they could be melted down and used as cannonballs. Just east of Ocotepec is the Benedictine monastery of Nuestra Señora de los Angeles designed by Gabriel Chávez de la Mora. The chapel is round and is used for Catholic retreats.

There are a number of non-Catholic churches in Cuernavaca also, notably the Episcopal Cathedral of San Miguel Arcángel located at the corner of Calles Guerrero and Santos, Centro Historico.

• Landmarks and monuments of Cuernavaca

  Teopanzolco, Aztec, date from the Middle to Late Postclassic Period (1300-1521)

Cuernavaca Cathedral and Convent, built in 1529-late 17th century, by the Franciscans. A UNESCO WHS.

Chapel of Santa María, chapel of the Cuernavaca Cathedral

Palace of Cortés, built between 1523 and 1747 by Hernán Cortés and Gregorio Cayetano Durán.

Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, built in 1784.

Parish El Divino Salvador de Ocotepec, built in 1530-1592 by the Franciscans friars.

Chapel of San José Tlaltenango, built in 1523.

Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los Milagros de Tlaltenango, built in 1720-1730.

Asunción de María y San José Parish, built in the 16th century.

Museo Fotográfico de Cuernavaca (El Castillito), house built in early 20th century.

Museo de Arte Indígena Contemporáneo, building built in 17th century.

Teopanzolco

Teopanzolco is an archeological site located just east of the historic downtown of Cuernavaca. Until recently its construction was dated to the year 1427, but new evidence revealed by 19 September 2017 earthquake suggests the original structure was built between 1150 and 1200 CE. Teopanzolco was an important ceremonial center during the 15th and 16th centuries when the native Tlahuicas were dominated by the Aztecs. The site shows significant Aztec influence. It has a large pyramidal base, called the Gran Basamento, topped by two shrines, much like the Templo Mayor in Tenochtitlan. In fact, the new finds indicate that Teopanzolco predates the Templo Mayor and served as a model for the latter. Only the stone columns of these shrines remain today. The teocalli, (sacred plaza) contains fourteen monuments including a circular altar dedicated to the wind deity Ehécatl. There are also two concentric structures separated by a moat or ditch. Both might have been dedicated to Quetzalcoatl, the feathered-serpent deity, or to Tlāloc, god or rain. The ruins were discovered during the Siege of Cuernavaca in 1914 as the Zapatistas used the heights to place their cannons.

Centro Cultural Teopanzolco

The Cultural Center next to the pyramids has recently been remodeled and now includes several first-class concert halls. There is outside seating facing the pyramids where one can see a video mapping of the pyramid site (Spanish only). centro-cultural-teopanzolco/ English (Retrieved Dec 16, 2016)

Borda Garden

The Borda Garden is located near the cathedral on Morelos Street. Originally, this was a house bought by José de la Borda, the mining magnate of Taxco in the mid-18th century. Later, his son, Manuel de Borda y Verdugo, transformed the grounds of the house into gardens filled with flower and fruit trees to satisfy his passion for botany. These gardens also contain a number of fountains and an artificial lake that were completed in 1783. Today the complex contains an art gallery, offices, a restaurant, and an open-air theater. In 1865, this was the summer home of Emperor Maximilian I and his wife Carlota Amalia. Some sources say the emperor met his mistress, "La India Bonita", there, (although other sources say they met at his home called "El Olindo" in Acapantzingo.) In the late 19th and early 20th centuries the Borda Garden sponsored soirees, such as those sponsored by Porfirio Díaz and Emiliano Zapata. Today the area is a public park where the gardens have been maintained and it is possible to take a short boat ride on the lake. The house has been converted into a museum. Six of its halls are dedicated to temporary exhibits while the other seven are devoted to recreating the characteristics of the 18th and 19th centuries.

The Church of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe is located next to the Borda Garden, and was constructed by Manuel de la Borda in 1784. It has a Baroque façade and what is considered to be the best cupola in the city. It was the royal chapel of Emperor Maximilian. The cupola was badly damaged in the earthquake of 2017.

Robert Brady Museum

The Robert Brady Museum is on Nezahualcoyotl Street and occupies the building known as the Casa de la Torre, originally part of the monastery of La Asunción. In 1960, it was purchased by the U.S. artist, Robert Brady, who transformed it into his home and a private art and collectible museum. It contains a collection of art and crafts from around the world as well as the original Self-Portrait with Monkey painted by Frida Kahlo. Other works are by artists such as Miguel Cobarruvias, Pelegrí Clavé, María Izquierdo, and Rufino Tamayo. Non-Mexican paintings include those from North America and Europe. Other objects in the collection include antique furniture, African and Indian crafts, and archeological pieces. The collection occupies fourteen rooms of the old house, which has been kept mostly the way it was when Brady died in 1986 and bequeathed the house and its contents to the city.

Tlaltenango

Tlaltenango used to be a separate town, but now is a neighborhood of Cuernavaca city. The main attraction there is the church compound containing the Church of San José and the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Milagros de Tlaltenango. San José is one of the oldest churches in Mexico, built between 1521 and 1523. Two centuries later an image of the Virgin appeared to members of this village, prompting the building of the second church. This is the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los Milagros, which was built in 1730, with its bell towers built at the end of the 19th century.

Hacienda Atlacomulco

The Hacienda de San Antonio Atlacomulco is located south of the Cuernavaca and was established by Hernán Cortés as one of the first sugar plantations in Mexico. Descendants of the Conquistador held the property until the 19th century, when it became the property of Lucas Alamán, who modernized the facility. The hacienda lost its surrounding properties during the Mexican Revolution and all that remains is the main house. After a long period of restoration and modification, the hacienda today houses an exclusive hotel, which can accommodate conventions and banquets.

Museum of Traditional and Herbal Medicine and the Ethnicbotanical garden

South of the city center is Acapantzingo, which had been a separate town, but now is part of the city. A large farm owned by Emperor Maximilian I existed there in the 1860s. It was named Olindo, referring to a character in the poem by Torquato Tasso. The emperor used this property as one of his residences in Cuernavaca, and according to rumor, to enjoy the company of a certain beautiful Indian woman. On this farm and in what was the Pavilion, is now the Museum of Traditional and Herbal Medicine (Museo de Medicina Tradicional). The museum sponsors workshops and classes on the use of plants to make soap, cremes, dyes, decorative objects and more. Outside is the ethnicbotanical garden with exhibits including 800 species of plants organized by uses, such as the making of textiles, animal feed, condiments, ritual, and others.

Children's "Kite" Museum

Located on Avenida Vicente Guerrero 205, Colonia Lomas de Selva is the Papalote Children's Museum an interactive children's museum with up to thirty exhibitions and artistic experiences for children, such as a bed of nails, Vincent van Gogh room, Lego, garden, sandbox, bubble factory, and others. Some exhibits are even for children under 3.

Chapultepec Ecological Park

The Chapultepec Ecological Park is located about four km southeast of the Cuernavaca city center. It contains fresh-water springs, which form the beginning of a river, and is surrounded by large trees called Chapultepec. It is a public park administered by the State Commission of Water and Environment. In addition to playgrounds, the park has constructed habitats for monkeys, birds, butterflies, crocodiles, reptiles, aquatic plants, and orchids. It also has a petting zoo, environmental museum, planetarium, house of terror, theater, and tour train. Beginning December 2018, Diana Ríos, a Mexican designer and artist working with the company Veneno Ríos is in charge of creating a new façade called "Metamorphosis" inspired in evolution and species changes as well as the love of nature in Morelos. Featured species are the cangrejito barranqueño (a crab), the carpita morelense (carp), and the amate amarillo (yellow fig tree).

Chapitel del Calvario

The Chapitel del Calvario is a church located at the corner of Morelos and Matamoros Streets, which was constructed in 1532. The word "chapitel" means "spire" as the church is named after two spires that define its appearance. It also has a fourteen-meter-high dome. It was constructed in the 16th century and was the last building encountered within Cuernavaca, as one left the city on the road to Mexico City. In 1772, this church was dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe.

El Castillito

The Museo de Fotografía Antigua, also known as El Castillito (the little castle), is located one block from the Chapitel del Calvario. It is a very small, brick building that dates from the early 20th century when it was built as a home for the caretaker of the park that is next to the bridge built by Porfirio Diaz. It was later abandoned until Governor Vicente Estrada Cajigal remodeled it as his residence. Since 1986 it has been a small museum dedicated to antique photographs of the city of Cuernavaca.

Salto de San Antón / St. Anthony Waterfall

The Salto de San Anton is a large ravine with a thin but tall waterfall located in the neighborhood of San Anton Analco on the west side of Cuernavaca. The waterfall is 36 metres (118 feet) high, with its water coming from a small tributary of the Zempoala River. The vertical walls of the ravine are of basalt and broad-leafed vegetation grows in nooks and crannies of the stone. A series of stairs and platforms have been built to enable access to the waterfall area from the park above.

Museo Morelense de Arte Contemporáneo Juan Soriano

The Juan Soriano Museum of Contemporary Art is located east of downtown near the Adolfo López Mateos Market in Colonia Amatitlan. The museum opened amidst controversy on 8 June 2018, and includes a collection of 1,200 paintings, sculptures, drawings, and photographs, including a permanent collection of works by the artist Juan Soriano. The museum was designed by the architect Javier Sanchez and it cost 300 million pesos (US$15 million) to build.

Ravine of Amanalco Park / Barranca de Amanalco

The ravines of Cuernavaca play a major role in regulating the climate of the city. One of the most important is the Ravine of Amanalco, which served as a natural defensive line for the city of Cuauhuanauc during the Spanish conquest of 1520, until Hernán Cortés managed to cross it where the modern "Puente del Diablo" is located.

The Ravine of Amanalco Park opened in the 1990s and features a 352-meter long walkway beginning at the Porfirio Díaz bridge and ending at the arches of a colonial-era aqueduct of Carlos Cuagila Street. It is a peaceful walk under dense foliage, and the only sounds you will hear are the birds and the running water.

One can view of the under area of the bridge, which was built at the end of the 19th century in order to connect the center of the city and the railway station via trolly.

La Tallera David Alfaro Siqueiros / David Alfaro Siqueiros House & Studio

The David Alfaro Siqueiros House and Studio in Cuernavaca, was donated to "the people of Mexico" by David Alfaro Siqueiros (1896–1974). In the late fifties, Siqueiros was creating the mural Del Porfirismo a la Revolución (1957–66). On 9 August 1960, this project was abandoned because he was charged with the crime of "social dissolution" and the muralist was imprisoned. When he left prison in 1964, Siqueiros finished the mural and built a house and workshop in the city of Cuernavaca. There, he lived and executed the mural La Marcha de la Humanidad (1971–73), currently located at the Polyforum Siqueiros.

The house/workshop is located in Parque Siqueiros at the intersection of Calles Marte and Venus, Colonia Jardines de Cuernavaca. It is recommended that one enter from Calle Marte in order to fully appreciate the recently restored murals outside. Free. Siqueiros Park & Studio (English) Retrieved Dec 16, 2018

Other museums

La Casona Spencer (Spencer House) is a cultural center designed to promote the arts. Opened in 2006, the building, located across from the cathedral, dates from colonial time. It was donated to the city upon the death of British artist John Spencer.

Morelos Museum of Popular Arts is located downtown on Hidalgo Street between the cathedral and the Cuauhnahuac Museum. The museum opened in 2016 and features traditional art of Morelos and other parts of Mexico, including ceramics, wax sculpture, and pottery. The exhibits are changed often, and there is a gift shop.

City Museum / Museo de la Ciudad de Cuernavaca (MuCIC) is located in a two-story colonial building on Avenida Morelos next to the Borda Garden. There are six halls for permanent exhibitions and six halls for temporary exhibitions. Since its beginnings in the 16th century, the building has been closely associated with the religious, social, and cultural life of the city. There is a retrospective exhibit of the life of Emiliano Zapata Salazar on the second floor.

Museum of Contemporary Indigenous Art harbors works of 12 ethnic groups of Mexico: Rarámuri, Yoreme, Yaqui, Purhépecha, Huichol, Mazahua, Otomí (or Hñahñu), Nahua, Mixtec, Tzotzil, Tzeltal, and Zapotec, besides spaces dedicated to the cultural communities of Mata Ortiz and the peoples of Morelos. We can view textiles, pottery, wood carvings, and ceramics. The collection belongs to the foundation Pro-Niño Marginado N.G.O. The Autonomous University of Morelos (UAEM) is the custodian of its protection, preservation, research, and exhibition. The building it occupies today was constructed in the 16th century. It is the oldest civilian building on Morelos Avenue, in downtown Cuernavaca.

Museo Güelu is a small modern art museum that is run by Fundacion Fernando Cue Gomez, A.C.. It is located on Ixtalapa Street across from the pyramids in Vista Hermosa.

Science Museum / Museo de Ciencias is located in San Miguel Acapantzingo Park, Colonia Cantarranas, where the state penitentiary stood from 1934 to 2000. This is a hands-on museum designed for informal teaching related to scientific issues. There are two permanent exhibition halls: one dedicated to water and the other dedicated to climate change. The museum offers workshops for children on Mechatronics and Robotics, as well as a 120-seat auditorium and temporary exhibit halls. There is a separate building dedicated to Planet Earth in the park, and there is a Cuexcomate (traditional silo) on the site.

Museum of Sacred Art / Museo de Arte Sacro de Cuernavaca is located within the cathedral, spread over two floors of what was once the cloister. There are numerous religious objects on view.

Parks and diversion

Solidarity Park / Parque Alameda Luis Donaldo Colosio Murrieta is located on Paseo Cuauhnáhuac east of the freeway. It was named in honor of a presidential candidate who was assassinated in 1994. Entering the park, there is a large fountain built to resemble the ball court in Coatetelco archaeological site. Directly ahead is a public library "Biblioteca 17 de Abril", which has a large mural depicting the history of the State of Morelos. There is also a statue of José María Morelos in front of the building. Visitors can enjoy volleyball, basketball, and mini-soccer fields, as well as a bicycle path, rollerblading rink, and an artificial lake.

San Miguel Acapantzingo Park is located on Calle Altlacumolco in Colonia Cantarranas south of the market. The site was previously the state penitentiary (1934–2000), and you can see a small section of one of the cells there. The Science Museum, Casa Tierra (Earth House), a dancing fountain, a jogging path, a playground, and a Cuexcomate (traditional silo) are in the park. There is also a Byzantine mural called Despertar en Primavera (Waking up in Spring).

Tlatenango Ecological Park is located on Avenida Zapata at the traffic circle in the north of the city. This park has a projection room for children's movies, exhibit halls for artists, tennis courts, and an open-air gym.

Chapultepec Ecological Park is located off Plan de Ayala in Colonia Chapultepec near the IMSS hospital. The park covers 11 hectares of land and runs lineally for more than 1.5 km. Near the entrance, there is a spring which runs into a crystal-clear stream surrounded by trees, some of which are more than 250 years old. Species include ahuehuetes (cypress), amates (fig trees), guava, and others. There is a butterfly sanctuary, an orchid exhibit, and several species of birds, mammals, and reptiles on display. There is a house of horror, a planetarium, a tourist train, a petting zoo, a solar house, a large exhibit hall, and an artificial lake with paddle boats. There are also cultural spaces for dance, music, and theater. A fair selling local, natural products is held on Sundays.

Melchor Ocampo Garden of Art was inaugurated by Porfirio Díaz, on 11 December 1897, and was built as part of the festivities for the arrival of the railroad to Cuernavaca. Governor Vicente Estrada Cajigal in 1934, built a rudimentary zoo and a swimming pool and the name was changed to "Parque Emiliano Zapata". The zoo and park are mentioned in the novel Under the Volcano by Malcolm Lowry. The park was remodeled in 2013 and its name reverted to Melchor Ocampo, a space where natural or vegan products are bought and sold, and crafts are exhibited and sold. Every last Sunday of the month, dogs and cats are sterilized for free while others are offered in adoption. The park is located in the Barrio de Gualupita, near the Pullman de Morelos/Selva bus station.

Revolution Park is downtown. There is a basketball gym, a volleyball gym, a 25-meter swimming pool, and an area for playing chess.

Unidad Deportiva Centenario (Centennial Sports Center) near the UAEM has a soccer stadium, baseball field, and gyms for a variety of different sports.

El Miraval is a sports complex (including soccer field) in the neighborhood of the same name (Valley Overlook).

Parque lineal Ferrocarril de Cuernavaca is a bicycle path that follows the former rail line between Av. Rio Mayo and Av. San Diego. The bicycle path is also popular with rollerbladers, dog walkers, and joggers. Cyclists can continue all the way to the Picacho-Ajusco highway.

La Cascada (the waterfall) water park features a small waterfall, Olympic swimming pool, picnic area, parking, and basketball and volleyball courts. It is located on Vicente Guerrero Street in Colonia Las Granjas.

Barranca de Chalchihuapan (Chalchihuapan Ravine) is in the town of Santa María Ahuacatitlán, north of Cuernavaca. There are rustic ponds and a river for raising trout. Visitors can choose the fish they like which is then caught and prepared on site. Visitors can also enjoy the mixed forest, a natural spring, and during the rainy season, there is a waterfall. Visitors can take guided tours, and go camping and birdwatching.

Children and adults can visit El Túnel (the tunnel), an important source of drinking water for Cuernavaca. El Túnel was discovered by Eugenio Jesús Cañas in 1898, and in 1932 pipes were laid. The tunnel is located on Fco. I. Madero, Colonia Miraval.

Cuernavaca has two private golf courses: Club de Golf Tabachines located near the expressway and Club de Golf de Cuernavaca located a few blocks south of downtown.

Monuments

Morelotes is a large statue of Jose Maria Morelos y Pavon designed by sculptor Juan Olaguíbel in the 1940s. It is located in the Zocalo. There is a smaller statue of Morelos in front of the library at Solidarity Park.

Cuauhtemoc (1496-1525) was the last emperor (tlatoani) of Tenochtitlan. He was infamously tortured by Hernán Cortés, who wanted him to reveal where he kept his gold. The statue is located at the intersection of Teopanzolco and Nueva Belgica, Fracc Rincon Del Valle, and was dedicated while Rogelio Sanchez Gatica was Presidente Municipal (2012). (Statue was previously near the train station.)

Paloma de la Paz (Dove of Peace) is located at the traffic circle at the intersection of Av. Heróico Colegio Militar and Av. Domingo Diez. Designed by Víctor Manuel Contreras, it is the first thing visitors from Mexico City see as they get off the tollway.

Monument to General Carlos Pacheco Villalobos who fought alongside Benito Juarez against Maximiliano. He was the first governor of the state (1877-1879). The statue is located in front of the Palace of Cortes.

Monument to Manuel Ávila Camacho is located at the traffic circle of the street that bears his name and Calzada de los Compositores in Lomas de Atzingo. The bronze statue of the president was built in October 1957 by Everardo Hernández Rodríguez.

Monument to Vicente Guerrero is located on Av. Vicente Guerrero in Colonia Lomas de la Selva. Guerrero was a military leader during the Mexican War of Independence and Mexico's second president.

A statue of Emiliano Zapata is located at the traffic circle at Av. Zapata and Av. Heróico Colegio Militar.

A statue of the Niño Artillero, Narciso Mendoza, is located at the traffic circle at the intersection of Av. Morelos Sur and Juarez Blvd. in Las Palmas. As a twelve-year-old, Mendoza bravely fired a cannon at the royalist troops during the 1812 Siege of Cuautla.

Libertad de Expression (Freedom of the Press) is located on Teopanzolco in Vista Hermosa. Of the 264 names of journalists who have been killed since the 19th century, 115 have been killed in the 20th century (up to Dec. 2018).

A statue of Alexander von Humboldt is located in front of the Spencer House on Hidalgo Street downtown. Humboldt nicknamed Cuernavaca The City of Eternal Spring during his 1805 visit.

A statue of Benito Juarez is located on Juarez Blvd. at Motolinia St., south of the Palacio de Cortes. It was erected by the local Mason lodges. At the same site, there is a smaller work to honor the Winter Solstice of 21 December 2012, also erected by the Masons.

There is a bust of Maria Felix in Plaza Maria Bonita in front of Parque Melchor Ocampo in Gualupita.

Acueducto de Gualupita Calle Carlos Cuaglia, Gualupita, at the Barranca de Amanalco.

Porfirio Díaz bridge was built in the 1890s to connect downtown and the train station via a horse-drawn trolly. The other entrance to the Barranca de Amanalco is located here. The Photography Museum was originally built for the gardener who took care of the area surrounding the bridge.

Stampeding Horses, Five Bathing Nymphs, and Diana the Huntress is at Plaza Gustavo Baz are in Colonia Vista Hermosa. A sign notes that Scouts de Mexico meets at Plaza Gustavo Baz on Saturdays.

Capilla Culhuacán de los Dolores and Capilla de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores are in Ocotopec. Capilla de los Santos Reyes is a 16th-century chapel in Tetela del Monte in the north of the city. The bell tower dates from the 17th century, and the chapel is constructed in a primitive Baroque style. Artist John Spencer rebuilt the walls in the 1980s. Capilla de los Tepetates (Jesus de Nazareth) is on Arteaga St. downtown, off Guerero Street. Capilla de San Diego (or San Diegito) is a small 16th century chapel on Galeana St. in Acapantzingo. His feast is in mid-November. Capilla de San Francisco was built in the 16th century before the Cathedral so the monks would have a place of worship during the construction of the latter. It is on Galeana Street downtown. Capilla de San Miguel Acapantzingo was built in the 16th century on Matamoros Street in Acapantzingo, across from the Casa de Maximiliano/Botanical Garden. The chapel suffered some damage during the 2017 earthquake, but it has been restored. His feast is 29 September. Parroquia de la Resurección del Señor y Santa María de Guadalupe is outside Melchor Ocampo Park. Parroquia de San Antonio de Padua is a colonial church on Jesús H. Preciado St., San Antón on the west side of the city, near the Cascada de San Antonio. There are several places to purchase potted plants in the neighborhood. Templo de Guadalupe on Av. Morelos, Centro is an 18th-century church built by Jose de la Borda next to the Jardin Borda. Templo de San Pablo is on Humboldt Street downtown. 18th century. Capilla de San Juan Evangelista is on Calle Sn. Juan, Col. Chapultepec. 18th century.

The train station dates from the late 19th century and is located east of Plan de Ayala. Today it hosts a dance studio.

Cine Morelos on Av. Morelos, Centro, was constructed in the 19th century. Today the theater shows art films.

Puente del Diablo bridge crosses the Barranca de Amanalco at the point where the devil himself, Hernán Cortés, entered the city of Cuauhnahuac in 1521.

Calle Rufino Tamayo was previously called Cinco de Mayo, and before that, it was called Camino al Pueblo de San Miguel Acapantzingo. The bridge across the ravine is called La Emperatriz Muralist Diego Rivera lived at a house located at the corner of Rufino Tamayo and Morelos St. in Colonia Acapantzingo from 1951 to 1957. Artist Rufino Tamayo (1899–1991) lived in a house on the Privada located near Calle Humboldt.

There is a statue dedicated to women at the corner of C. Humboldt and Salazar, across from La Vecindad (the Neighborhood) Children's Cultural Center. The statue was erected on 8 March 1982. A statue of Blind Justice is in front of the Palacio de Justicia behind the Cortes Palace. A plaque on a building on Hidalgo St. in the Historic Center, across from the Cortes Palace, notes that artist Jorge Cazares Campos was born there. The plaque is dated 20 November 2005. He was born on 20 November 1937, and several of his works are on display throughout the city.

Festivals and dance

The Feria de la Flor started in 1965. This flower festival happens from May 2 to May 12. During the festival, flower growers from all over Mexico show their flowers and compete for a prize. There are fair rides, cockfights, horse competitions, and music events. Neighborhoods in Cuernavaca also have celebrations for their patron saints. These include feasts on May 15, June 13, August 6, August 10, August 15, and September 8, each with special dances and foods like mole and pulque. Since 1965, Cuernavaca has also held a carnival.

The Huehuechis dance group began in Cuernavaca in 1870. Young people dressed in old clothes and boots, covered their faces, and danced in the streets. This tradition became popular and spread to other places. In Tepoztlan, the dance changed and became known as the "Chinelos", featuring new costumes and masks.

Cuernavaca has been a popular place for famous people since Aztec times. Many artists, intellectuals, and film stars have lived there. The city has hosted important events and continues to attract people from around the world.

The municipality

Cuernavaca is made up of 12 towns: Acapantzingo, Ahuatepec, Amatitlan, Buenavista del Monte, Chamilpa, Chapultepec, Chipitlan, Ocotepec, San Anton Analco, Santa Maria Ahuacatitlan, Tetela del Monte, and Tlaltenango. As the main city of Morelos, Cuernavaca helps govern 142 other smaller communities. It is found in the northeast part of the state and touches the areas of Huitzilac, Temixco, Miacatlán, Tepoztlán, Zapata and Jiutepec. Together with several nearby areas, it forms the Cuernavaca Metropolitan Area.

In 2005, only 3,041 people spoke an indigenous language. By 2015, the total population had grown to 366,321. The city of Cuernavaca is in the southern part of the municipality, and about 38% of the area is covered by urban development, including the city and a few nearby suburbs.

The land of Cuernavaca lies between the Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt to the north and the Sierra Madre del Sur to the south, in a mountain range called the Sierra del Chichinautzin. It covers 151.2 square kilometres (58.4 square miles). Some of this land is used for farming, some for fishing, some is built up, and some is forest. The average height above sea level is 2,200 metres (7,200 feet), but it varies between 1,255 and 2,355 metres (4,117 and 7,726 feet). The highest points are in the east and north.

During the rainy season, small rivers form in places like Minaltepec and Ajomulco, and they all join to become the Cuernavaca River. Other small streams flow into different rivers and waterfalls. There are also several springs around Cuernavaca. The area is part of the Amacuzac River Basin.

Geography

Climate

Cuernavaca has a warm climate, with temperatures that stay comfortable because of its height above sea level. The warmest month is May, with an average temperature of 23.5 °C, and the coolest month is January, with an average of 18.7 °C. The city has two different climate areas. The north has a milder climate with summer rains and forests of pine and oak trees. The south is warmer, with grasslands and some rainforest. The average yearly temperature is about 20.9 °C. Temperatures rarely get hotter than 34 °C or colder than 10 °C.

Economy

Cuernavaca's economy is mostly based on retail trade, with many shops and businesses in and around the city. Agriculture and fish farming employ fewer people, though the area has good resources for these activities. The far north is not well-suited for farming because of its rocky and volcanic soil, while the southeast is better for farming. Lower areas around 1,800 metres are good for fishing and fish farming, middle areas between 1,800 and 2,100 metres are used for a mix of farming and forest products, and higher areas above 2,100 metres are mainly forests. Fish farming faces challenges from urban growth, especially in the Ahuatepec region east of the city.

Outside Cuernavaca, there are some plant nurseries that grow and sell plants, flowers, and seeds, even sending them internationally. Many famous gardens worldwide get flowers from this region. Industry here is small, mostly involving printing, framing, ceramics, making clothes, and producing cleaning supplies, employing about 28% of the people. Most people, around 67%, work in retail and service jobs, which depend on tourism. Local crafts include ceramics and wax products, such as beeswax shaped into fun figures, along with flowerpots, clay objects, handmade paper, and painted wood masks.

Education

Cuernavaca has many private and public schools for children of all ages. In 2009, some of the best elementary and middle schools in the area were listed based on their performance in government exams that test Spanish and math skills.

Cuernavaca is also home to several universities, including UNAM and the Universidad Autonoma del Estado de Morelos. The city offers many schools where visitors can learn Spanish through intensive classes and cultural activities.

International relations

See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in Mexico

Twin towns – sister cities

Cuernavaca has friendly partnerships with several cities around the world. It is twinned with:

• Minneapolis, Minnesota in the United States
• New York, New York in the United States
• Denver, Colorado in the United States
• Ōtaki, Chiba in Japan
• Minoh, Osaka in Japan

Popular culture

Some well-known books and stories take place in Cuernavaca. These include Under the Volcano by Malcolm Lowry, Please Write For Details by John D. MacDonald, and Zami: A New Spelling of My Name by Audre Lorde.

A few songs and television shows also mention Cuernavaca. For example, the movie Under the Volcano was filmed there, and some episodes of TV shows like La Fea Mas Bella and The Pretender feature the city.

Transportation

The city is about 90 minutes away from Mexico City by car.

There is a commercial airport nearby called Cuernavaca airport. Over time, it has had service from airlines such as the now-closed Mexicana, as well as Aeromexico and VivaAerobus, and others.