Moselle

The Moselle is a river that begins in the Vosges mountains and flows through north-eastern France, Luxembourg, and western Germany. It is a smaller river that joins the much larger Rhine river near the town of Koblenz. A small part of Belgium also helps to supply water to the Moselle.

As the Moselle travels, it passes through some very beautiful landscapes. Near the towns of Trier and Koblenz, the river winds through a lovely valley. To the north of the river lies the Eifel region, and to the south is the Hunsrück area.

Long ago, the Romans farmed the land around the Moselle. Today, the slopes of the river are covered with rows of grapevines. These vineyards make some of the finest Rieslings, a type of white wine. Many old castles, now just ruins, sit on the hills above the villages. Two interesting towns along the river are Traben-Trarbach, known for its beautiful art nouveau style buildings, and Bernkastel-Kues, which has a charming old market square.

Name

The name Moselle comes from an old Celtic word, Mosela. It later became Mosella in Latin. This name is related to Mosa, the Latin name for the river Meuse, which used to flow near the Moselle. The river was first written about by the historian Tacitus.

A Roman poet named Ausonius wrote about the Moselle in the 4th century. He described a trip along the river and its beautiful landscapes. The river later gave its name to two areas in France: Moselle and Meurthe-et-Moselle.

Geography

The Moselle River starts 715 meters (2,346 feet) above sea level on the Col de Bussang in the Vosges mountains. It flows for 544 kilometers (338 miles) before joining the Rhine River at Deutsches Eck in Koblenz. In France, the river stretches for 313 kilometers (194 miles). It forms a border between Germany and Luxembourg for 39 kilometers (24 miles), and then continues for another 208 kilometers (129 miles) in Germany.

The Moselle runs through the Lorraine region in France and later forms the boundary between the Eifel and Hunsrück mountain regions in Germany. It is the second largest tributary of the Rhine.

River sections

The part of the Moselle from the France–Germany–Luxembourg tripoint near Schengen to where it meets the Saar River near Konz is called the Upper Moselle. The section from Trier to Pünderich is the Middle Moselle, and the part from Pünderich to Koblenz is the Lower Moselle. The Middle and Lower Moselle are known for their wide bends and vineyards.

From the tripoint, the Moselle forms the border between Saarland and Luxembourg.

Catchment

The Moselle’s drainage area covers 28,286 square kilometers (10,921 square miles). France contributes about 54 percent of this area. The German state of Rhineland-Palatinate covers part of the area, as do Saarland, Luxembourg, Wallonia in Belgium, and North Rhine-Westphalia.

Tributaries

The three largest tributaries of the Moselle are the Meurthe, the Saar, and the Sauer. The Saar is the longest and largest tributary. The Sauer is the largest left-hand tributary. The Moselotte, a tributary at the Moselle’s mouth, carries more water than the Moselle itself.

List of tributaries

From the left

Madon, Terrouin, Esch, Rupt de Mad, Orne, Fensch, Gander, Syre, Sauer, Kyll, Salm, Lieser, Alf, Endert, Brohlbach, Elz.

From the right

Moselotte, Vologne, Meurthe, Seille, Saar, Olewiger Bach, Avelsbach, Ruwer, Feller Bach, Dhron, Ahringsbach, Kautenbach, Lützbach, Flaumbach, Altlayer Bach, Baybach, Ehrbach.

Towns

Towns along the Moselle include:

• in France: Épinal, Toul, Pont-à-Mousson, Metz and Thionville
• in Luxembourg: Schengen, Remich, Grevenmacher and Wasserbillig
• in Germany: Konz, Trier, Schweich, Bernkastel-Kues, Trabber-Trarbach, Zell, Cochem and Koblenz

Adjacent mountain ranges

From Trier downstream, the Moselle separates the Eifel (to the northwest) and the Hunsrück (to the southeast), two Central Upland ranges.

Geology

The Vosges mountains, where the Moselle River starts, formed about 50 million years ago. During the Miocene and Pliocene times, the old Moselle River flowed into the old Rhine River. Later, when the Rhenish Massif rose up, the Moselle River made winding paths between the Trier Valley and the Neuwied Basin.

Water levels

The Moselle River has a highest level for boats of 6.95 meters. The normal level is 2.00 meters, measured at Trier Gauge.

Sometimes the water gets very high, like on December 21, 1993, when it reached 11.28 meters. There have also been times when the water was very low, like 0.47 meters in Bernkastel on July 28, 1921.

History

The Moselle River was known to ancient Romans as Flumen Musalla. A poet named Ausonius wrote about it around the year 371. In the 10th century, the land along the river was called Mosellania.

During World War II, the river was in the path of soldiers moving toward Berlin. In 1944, American forces crossed the river at a place called Dieulouard to help move past German troops. After getting to the other side, more soldiers crossed and moved toward the city of Nancy, cutting off supplies to German forces. By September 15, 1944, the city was freed thanks to these soldiers.

In 1952, leaders agreed to improve the river for travel between Thionville and Koblenz. The river became easier to travel on between Metz and Thionville when a canal opened in 1964. The Schengen Agreement was signed by leaders from France, Germany, and Luxembourg at a place where the three countries meet, making travel easier between many European countries.

Economy

The Moselle valley between Metz and Thionville is an industrial area, with coal mining and steel manufacturers.

The Moselle valley is famous for its scenery and wine. Most well-known is the German Mosel wine region, while the Luxembourg winegrowing region is called Moselle Luxembourgeoise and the French region is called AOC Moselle. Most notable among the wines produced here are Riesling, Elbling, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, and Auxerrois. The German part of the Moselle is a tourist destination.

Navigation

After World War II, France wanted to use the Moselle with larger ships to connect the industrial regions of Lorraine. In 1955, the people of the Saar voted to join West Germany. As a result, France asked for the Moselle to be upgraded. On 27 October 1956 they made the Moselle Treaty with Germany and Luxembourg to build a canal on the Moselle. In return, Germany got to extend the Grand Canal d'Alsace on the Upper Rhine. Work began in 1958 and by 26 May 1964 the Moselle was open from Metz to Koblenz as a major waterway for shipping with 14 locks. France extended it to Neuves-Maisons by 1979. Now, 394 km (245 mi) of the Moselle has been upgraded with 28 locks. Between 1992 and 1999 the river was made deeper so that 1,500-tonne ships could use it. The channel is 40 m (130 ft) wide. The Moselle Commission, started in 1962 with its office in Trier, looks after navigation. The Moselle Shipping Police Act applies in all three countries from Metz to Koblenz.

In 1921 the Moselle became a Reich waterway. Today it is a federal waterway from Apach to its mouth on the Rhine at Koblenz. The river is 242 km (150 mi) long and is looked after by the Trier and Koblenz Water and Shipping Offices. It is a European waterway of Class Vb. The river starts at kilometre point 0 at its mouth and goes upstream. Since 1816 it has been a 36 km (22 mi) long area shared by Germany and Luxembourg from Apach. The International Moselle Company, started in 1957 to help build the river, now manages shipping charges and the river’s upkeep.

Today the Moselle can be used by large cargo ships up to 110 metres (360 ft) long from the Rhine in Koblenz to Neuves-Maisons, south of Nancy. Smaller ships can use other parts of France through the Canal de la Meuse and the Canal de la Marne au Rhin. There are locks in Koblenz, Lehmen, Müden, Fankel, Sankt Aldegund, Enkirch, Zeltingen, Wintrich, Detzem, Trier, Grevenmacher, Palzem, Apach, Kœnigsmacker, Thionville, Richemont, Talange, Metz, Ars-sur-Moselle, Pagny-sur-Moselle, Blénod-lès-Pont-à-Mousson, Custines, Pompey, Aingeray, Fontenoy-sur-Moselle, Toul, Villey-le-Sec, and Neuves-Maisons.

By 1970 more than 10 million tonnes of goods were moved on the Moselle, mostly on towed barges. Upstream freight was mainly fuel and ores; downstream it was steel products, gravel and rocks. There is an inland port at Trier, and other ports in Mertert, Thionville, Metz and Frouard. There are also pleasure boats for tourists between wine villages and small towns on the Middle and Lower Moselle. There are marinas in Koblenz, Winningen, Brodenbach, Burgen, Löf, Hatzenport, Senheim, Treis, Traben-Trarbach, Kues, Neumagen, Pölich, Schweich, Trier and Konz. The Moselle is linked near Toul via the Canal de la Marne au Rhin with the Meuse, the Saône and the Rhône. Other canals link the river to the North Sea and the Mediterranean.

Locks and dams (weirs)

There are 28 changes of level on the Moselle:

• 16 in France near Neuves-Maisons, Villey-le-Sec, Toul, Fontenoy-sur-Moselle, Aingeray, Frouard-Pompey, Custines, Blénod-lès-Pont-à-Mousson, Pagny-sur-Moselle, Ars-sur-Moselle, Metz, Talange, Richemont, Thionville, Kœnigsmacker and Apach
• 2 between Luxembourg and Germany near Stadtbredimus-Palzem and Grevenmacher-Wellen
• 10 in Germany near Trier, Detzem, Wintrich, Zeltingen, Enkirch, St. Aldegund, Fankel, Müden, Lehmen and Koblenz. Detzem is the highest lock – 9 m (30 ft) – and the upstream reach is the longest on the river; it is the only lock built on a canal outside the river bed.

Except for Detzem, all the structures at each change in level are side by side; the lock is on one riverbank, the weir in the middle and the hydropower plant on the other bank. Between the lock and weir are a boat slipway and channel and boat lock, while between the weir and the power station is the fish ladder. The structures have been blended into the landscape through their low-level design; this was done by using sector gates for the weir, vertically lowering upper gates and mitred lower lock gates. The water levels and hydropower works are controlled by the Fankel Central Control Station of the RWE Power Company at Fankel.

Tourism

The Moselle valley has the Moselle Wine Route and the Moselle Cycleway, which can be cycled from Metz in France via Trier to Koblenz on the River Rhine, a distance of 311 km (193 mi).

Between Koblenz and Trier, large sections run on the trackbed of the old Moselle Valley Railway, away from motor vehicle noise and fumes. Every year on the Sunday after Pentecost, the 140 km (87 mi) of road between Schweich and Cochem is also car-free for Happy Moselle Day.

Many notable castles and ruins are on the heights above the Moselle valley and many can be seen on a boat trip on the Moselle.

In 1910, a hiking trail, the Moselle Ridgeway, was made. It runs for 185 km (115 mi) on the Eifel side and 262 km (163 mi) on the Hunsrück side. Another trail runs from Ediger-Eller via the Calmont Trail to Bremm through the steepest vineyard in Europe.

Before barrages were built the Moselle was popular for folding kayaks which is why many of the weirs have boat channels. The river is still used by canoeists, especially during the annual week-long lock closures when no commercial shipping is allowed.

In April 2014 the Moselle Trail opened, a path running for 365 km (227 mi) from Perl on the Upper Moselle to Koblenz. There are also many “partner trails”, side branches and “dream paths” that make the hiking network in the Moselle Valley better.

The ADAC's Rallye Deutschland has taken place since 2000 in the vineyards along the Moselle at Veldenz, Dhron, Piesport, Minheim, Kesten, Trittenheim, Fell, Ruwertal and Trier.

At Koblenz Locks the Mosellum has exhibitions about fish migration in the Moselle as well as water ecology, navigation and power generation. With the construction of the visitor and information centre the most modern fish ladder along the Moselle was opened.

Wine

The Moselle winegrowing region lies along the Moselle with a cultivated area of about 10,540 ha (26,000 acres). The largest part, just under 9,000 ha (22,000 acres), is on German soil in the states of Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland; the Luxembourg part has an area of about 1,300 ha (3,200 acres) (see Wine in Luxembourg). Upstream on the Moselle the vineyards extend into France as far as Seille in the region of Côtes de Moselle with an area of 130 ha (320 acres) and to the region around Toul (Côtes de Toul) covering 110 ha (270 acres).

The German Moselle wine region, including its tributaries, is called "Mosel". The agricultural authorities of the region have divided it into six winegrowing areas. The wine literature and specialist press, divide the region into four areas based on geology, climate and history:

Upper Moselle

The valley sides of the Upper Moselle (also called the Burgundy Moselle, Burgundermosel) with their muschelkalk soils belong geologically to the so-called Paris Basin, which explains its low proportion of Riesling – only around 10% in 2010 – and the increasing cultivation of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir grapes.

Trier Region

Around the city of Trier and in the valleys of the Saar and Ruwer with their side valleys, the Riesling is the main grape on the shale soils, with over 80% of the crop. One climate feature of this area is the frequent direction of often small southwest-southeast facing locations in which the plants are exposed to stronger, cooler winds and, especially with recent global warming, often achieve lower levels of maturity than in the narrow, often deeply cut valley of the Middle and Lower Moselle.

Middle Moselle

With around 6,000 ha (15,000 acres) of vineyard the Middle Moselle is the largest winegrowing area of the Moselle. According to wine experts and trade, the "greatest" wines of the Moselle, both in quantity and quality, are grown here on land that has been made into large concerns with much praised steeply sloped vineyards.

Lower Moselle

In the Lower Moselle Valley, there are medieval castles, high above small villages, decorated with timber-framed houses, surrounded by steep slopes with small terraces in the narrow, winding valley. Here, growing vines is very hard and expensive and it is difficult to make it worth it. As a result, it is common for vineyards to fall into ruin here.

The wine industry on the German Moselle has been declining for decades. In 2005, there were 10,375 ha (25,640 acres) of vineyard; by 2012 this had fallen to just 8,491 ha (20,980 acres). The vineyards that have been left are mostly on extremely steep hillsides. There has been a big drop in the number of so-called Nebenerwerbswinzer (vintners for whom it is a second job), and the small, family farming operations that, until the end of the 1960s formed most wine businesses. Comparative figures by the Chamber of Agriculture for Rhineland-Palatinate for several wine villages on the Lower Moselle show that there were still 797 wine businesses in the early 1960s, but by the early 2000s there were only just under 100.

There has been the opposite trend amongst established traditional wine estates and more recent vintners with good education in oenology and business management, who have increased their business through the reclamation of once famous, but long forgotten sites. The end of the 20th century saw the rediscovery of the use of special terroir in order to improve quality and value, which has led to a more detailed view of Moselle wine that, a few years before, had been described by overproduction, label scandals and cheap offers.

Moselle umbrella brand

On 10 November 2006 in Burg, the Moselle Regional Initiative was founded. The introduction of the Moselle as an umbrella brand was based on that of the Eifel region and covers products and services from the areas of agriculture, forestry, tourism, handicrafts and nature.

Moselle slate

Moselle slate (Moselschiefer) is a name for slate from the municipalities of Mayen, Polch, Müllenbach, Trier and its surrounding area. Today only products from the roofing slate mines of Katzenberg in Mayen and Margareta in Polch bear the name Moselle Slate. The name comes from the historical transport route for this slate along the Moselle to the Lower Rhine.

Railways

The following railway lines run or ran along the river:

• Koblenz–Trier railway (Moselstrecke), between Koblenz and Bullay, and in Trier, mostly on the left (northern) bank
• Pünderich–Traben-Trarbach railway, for its entire length, on the left (northern) bank
• Moselle Railway, between Bullay and Trier, on the right (southern) bank. Closed in the 1960s.
• Trier West Railway, between Ehrang and Igel, on the left (northern) bank
• Thionville–Trier railway (Obermoselstrecke), for its entire length, on the right (eastern) bank
• CFL line 1a, between Wasserbillig and Grevenmacher, on the left (western) bank. No passenger service remains.
• Metz–Luxembourg railway, between Thionville and Metz, mainly on the left bank
• Lérouville–Metz railway, between Metz and Novéant, mainly on the left bank
• Frouard–Novéant railway, mainly on the left bank
• Paris–Strasbourg railway, between Frouard and Toul
• Blainville-Damelevières–Lure railway, between Bayon and Épinal
• Épinal–Bussang railway, between Épinal and Remiremont, on the left bank

Moselle in literature

The river Moselle has been mentioned in many stories and poems. A famous old poem called Mosella was written in Latin by a person named Ausonius a long time ago. In a story from the Brothers Grimm called "The Seven Swabians," some characters have an adventure while trying to cross the river. A book from 1968 named Small Boat on the Moselle by Roger Pilkington talks about the river and the history of the places around it.

Castles

• Château de Meinsberg (dit de Malbrouck): near Manderen, this castle was built in the 15th century but rebuilt in the 1990s. Today it is used for many cultural events.
• Château Fort de Sierck-les-Bains: located right on the French-German border at Sierck-les-Bains, this fortress of the Duke of Lorraine dates back to the 11th century. Most of today's castle was built in the 18th century using plans from Vauban.
• Schloss Berg: a Renaissance castle at Nennig, today it is a hotel and a casino.
• Alte Burg: a manor house built in 1360 at Longuich. It is one of the few remaining manor houses in rural Rhineland-Palatinate.
• Schloss Lieser: a palace in Lieser built between 1884 and 1887 in historistic style.
• Landshut Castle: a castle built by the Electorate of Trier in the 13th century at Bernkastel-Kues.
• Grevenburg: ruins of a castle at Traben-Trarbach built by Johann III of Sponheim-Starkenburg around 1350. It was destroyed after many battles in 1734.
• Marienburg: a 12th-century castle that later became a monastery near Pünderich and Alf.
• Arras Castle: a 12th-century castle in Alf.
• Metternich Castle: a castle built around 1120 at Beilstein, today partly in ruins.
• Cochem Castle: The castle in Cochem was first built in the 11th century but was completely destroyed by French soldiers in 1689. The current castle was rebuilt in the 19th century.
• Thurant Castle: Above the town of Alken is Thurant Castle, built in the 13th century. It is the only castle with two towers along the Moselle. The fortress was constructed by Count Palatine Henry of the house of Guelph between 1198 and 1206. It was later divided into two parts. During the 19th century, it fell into ruin but was rebuilt in 1911. Since 1973, the castle has been owned by the Allmers and Wulf families.
• Ehrenburg: a 12th-century castle built by the Electorate of Trier at Brodenbach.
• Eltz Castle: The von Eltz family castle, which dates back to the 12th century. It is still privately owned today but is open to visitors.
• Lower and Upper Castle, Kobern-Gondorf: two castles from the 11th century, today mostly in ruins.
• Pyrmont Castle: This 13th-century castle near Roes was redesigned and expanded many times during the Baroque era.
• Bischofstein Castle: Across the river from the village of Burgen is this 13th-century castle, which was destroyed during the Nine Years' War but was rebuilt and is now used as a retreat center for the Fichte Gymnasium in Krefeld.