Gilgit-Baltistan

Gilgit-Baltistan is a special area managed by Pakistan. It is found in the northern part of the Kashmir region, which has been disputed between India and Pakistan since 1947. Gilgit-Baltistan shares borders with Azad Kashmir, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Afghanistan, China, and the parts of Kashmir controlled by India.

In 2009, the area was renamed Gilgit-Baltistan, and it now has its own elected assembly. Many people there wish to become a full province of Pakistan. The region covers a large area of 72,496 km² and has a population of about 1.7 million.

Gilgit-Baltistan is famous for its beautiful and tough terrain. It includes glaciers, tall mountains, and many lakes. Five of the world’s 14 highest mountains are here, including K2. The main ways people make a living are through agriculture and welcoming tourists who come to hike and climb mountains. The industry of tourism is growing more important each year.

Name

See also: Dardistan, Brushal, Shinaki, Baltistan, and Balawaristan

Gilgit-Baltistan gets its name from two old areas called Gilgit and Baltistan, which joined together in 1972. Long ago, people called the whole area Bolor or Boloristan. Other old names included Burushal for the Gilgit Valley, Little Tibet for Baltistan, and Shinaki for places where people spoke the Shina language.

Before it was called Gilgit-Baltistan, many different names were suggested. In 2008, leaders chose the name Gilgit-Baltistan, and the government agreed. The United Nations and other groups call this area "Pakistan-administered Kashmir". Gilgit-Baltistan is much bigger—about six times larger—than another nearby area called Azad Kashmir.

History

Main article: History of Gilgit-Baltistan

Early history

Rock carvings in Gilgit-Baltistan, especially in the Passu village of Hunza, show people have lived there since 2000 BC. Over time, the region was home to Tibetic people, who came before the Balti people of Baltistan. Today, Baltistan shares similarities with Ladakh in culture and ethnicity. Indo-Aryan peoples, sometimes called Dards, settled mainly in western areas. These people speak Shina and live in places like Gilgit, Chilas, Astore, and Diamir. In Hunza and the north, people speak Burushaski and Khowar. The Dards are mentioned in old writings by writers like Herodotus and Pliny.

In the 1st century, people in these areas followed the Bon religion, and by the 2nd century, they practised Buddhism. Between 399 and 414, a Chinese Buddhist visitor named Faxian travelled through Gilgit-Baltistan. In the 6th century, a place called Somana Palola (greater Gilgit-Chilas) was ruled by an unknown king. Between 627 and 645, another Chinese Buddhist visitor, Xuanzang, passed through on his journey to India.

Chinese records from the Tang dynasty tell us that between the 600s and 700s, the region was ruled by a Buddhist dynasty called Bolü. They were also known as the Patola Shahi dynasty. At the time, Little Palola referred to Gilgit, and Great Palola referred to Baltistan. The region was later controlled by Chinese and Tibetan forces and their allies until the mid-700s. Rulers of Gilgit worked with the Tang Chinese to resist others.

Between 644 and 655, a king named Navasurendrāditya-nandin ruled Gilgit. Many inscriptions in Sanskrit from his time have been found, including the Danyor Rock Inscriptions. In the late 600s and early 700s, another king, Jayamaṅgalavikramāditya-nandin, ruled Gilgit.

Chinese records show that in 717 and 719, a ruler of Great Palola (Baltistan) named Su-fu-she-li-ji-li-ni visited the Chinese court. By 719/720, Ladakh became part of the Tibetan Empire, and Buddhism was practised in Baltistan.

In 720, a delegate named Surendrāditya reached the Chinese court. He was called the king of Great Palola, but it is unclear if Baltistan was under Gilgit's rule then. By 721/722, Baltistan came under Tibetan influence. In 721–722, Tibetan soldiers tried but failed to capture Gilgit or Bruzha (Yasin Valley). At this time, the king of Little Palola was Mo-ching-mang, who asked the Tang court for help against the Tibetans. Between 723 and 728, Korean Buddhist visitor Hyecho passed through the area. In 737/738, Tibetan soldiers led by Bel Kyesang Dongtsab took control of Little Palola. By 747, Chinese soldiers led by Gao Xianzhi recaptured Little Palola. Great Palola was captured by Chinese soldiers in 753, but by 755, the Tang Chinese forces left, and Tibetan control began. The Tibetans called the region Bruzha, which relates to the Burusho people today. Tibetan control lasted until the late 800s.

Medieval history

After the Tibetan Empire declined, the region split into small principalities, each controlling a river valley. In the 14th century, Muslim teachers from Persia and Central Asia brought Islam to Baltistan, and it came to Gilgit Valley through the Trakhān dynasty. The Trakhān dynasty is believed to have started in the 8th century and was named after Raja Torrā Khan I (1241–75). It ruled Hunza Valley too. A Hunza prince moved to Shigar in the 10th century and started the Amacha dynasty. The western valleys of Yasin, Ishkoman, and Ghizer came under the Khushwaqt dynasty, a branch of the Kator dynasty of Chitral, after the 16th century.

In Skardu, the Maqpon dynasty began near the end of the 15th century. Maqpon king Ali Senge Anchan (1595–1633) united many lands from Purang to Brushal. He made alliances with the Gyalpo of Ladakh and had friendly ties with the Mughal court. His reign brought prosperity and growth in art, sports, and architecture. He introduced polo and sent musicians to Delhi to learn Indian music. Mughal architecture influenced the region during his time. Families from his line ruled Skardu, Kharmang, Khaplu, Roundu, and Astore until the Dogra conquest in the 19th century.

Under Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir

Main articles: Dogra invasion of Baltistan, Sikh intervention in Gilgit, 1852 Gilgit rebellion, and 1863 Yasin massacre

In the early 1800s, two rulers became important. The Maqpon king Ahmad Shah of Skardu united much of Baltistan through conquests and alliances between 1820 and 1840, while in the west, Gohar Aman of Yasin took over Gilgit in 1842. The rulers they removed helped the Dogra dynasty take over much of Gilgit-Baltistan in the following decades.

In November 1839, Dogra commander Zorawar Singh, loyal to Gulab Singh, invaded Baltistan. By 1840 he had taken Skardu and captured Ahmad Shah, who was forced to go with Zorawar Singh on a raid into Western Tibet. Meanwhile, Baghwan Singh was made administrator in Skardu. But the next year, Ali Khan of Rondu, Haidar Khan of Shigar, and Daulat Ali Khan from Khaplu led a successful revolt against the Dogras in Baltistan and captured the Dogra commander Baghwan Singh in Skardu.

In 1842, Dogra Commander Wasir Lakhpat, with help from Ali Sher Khan (III) from Kartaksho, took Baltistan again. There was a violent capture of the Kharphocho fortress. Haidar Khan from Shigar, a leader of the revolt against the Dogras, was imprisoned and died in captivity. Gosaun was made administrator of Baltistan.

In 1842, Karim Khan, the brother of the Raja of Gilgit who was removed by Gohar Aman, sought help from the Sikh governor of Kashmir, Ghulam Muhyuddin. Muhyuddin sent a Sikh group under colonel Nathu Shah who put Karim Khan on the throne, while taking Astore and Gilgit into the Sikh kingdom. After some years, Nathu Shah was killed in a battle against the Mir of Hunza, and Gilgit was taken again by Gohar Aman. It was only after Gohar Aman's death in 1860 that the Dogras finally controlled Gilgit.

After the Sikhs lost the First Anglo-Sikh War, the Lahore court had to give the Kashmir Valley and nearby Himalayan areas to the British under the treaty of Lahore. The British then sold these areas to Gulab Singh for 7.5 million Nanakshahi rupees after the Treaty of Amritsar, and also confirmed his control over Baltistan and Ladakh. This made Baltistan, Astore, and the Gilgit Valley part of the new princely state of Jammu and Kashmir in 1846.

Gilgit Agency

After the princely state was created, Baltistan became a tehsil of Ladakh Wazarat, while Gilgit and Astore were reorganised into separate Gilgit Wazarat. However, in 1888–89 the Gilgit Agency, a British Political Agency, was formed by the British government at Gilgit to watch Russian activities in Central Asia. For a time Gilgit was managed through this dual system, but the British Political Agent had more power than the Dogra governor. The British expanded the agency: in 1891 the states of Hunza and Nagar were brought under British control after the Anglo-Burusho War; after the British success in the 1895 Chitral Expedition, Swat, Dir, and Chitral were separated from Gilgit Agency and added to the new Malakand Agency, while the Khushwaqt lands of Ishkoman, Ghizer, and Yasin stayed in the Gilgit Agency. Finally in 1934, control of Indus Kohistan was moved from Gilgit to NWFP. In 1935, the Gilgit tehsil was leased by the British government to make governance easier.

People in Gilgit felt ethnically different from Kashmiris and did not like being ruled by the Kashmir state. The region stayed with the princely state, with some areas temporarily leased to the British, until 1 November 1947.

First Kashmir War

Main article: Gilgit Rebellion

After Pakistan became independent, Jammu and Kashmir was at first an independent state. On 22 October 1947, groups supported by Pakistan moved into Jammu and Kashmir after the Poonch rebellion and the Jammu Muslim massacre. Hari Singh asked India for help and signed the Instrument of Accession, making his state part of India. India sent troops by air to protect the Kashmir Valley, and the invaders were pushed back behind Uri.

The people of Gilgit did not want to join India. Muslims in the frontier areas (Gilgit and nearby hill states) wanted to join Pakistan. Sensing this, Major William Brown, the Maharaja's commander of the Gilgit Scouts, led a peaceful takeover on 1 November 1947, directing his Subedar-Major Babar Khan to arrest the governor Ghansara Singh. This was planned by Brown under the name "Datta Khel" and included a part of the Jammu and Kashmir State Forces under Mirza Hassan Khan. Brown made sure money was safe and minorities were protected. A temporary government was set up by Gilgit locals with Raja Shah Rais Khan as president and Mirza Hassan Khan as commander. However, Brown had already asked Pakistan to take over. Pakistan's political agent, Khan Mohammad Alam Khan, arrived on 16 November and took control of Gilgit. Brown prevented a group wanting independence and got the leaders of Hunza and Nagar to agree to join Pakistan. Hunza joined Pakistan on 3 November, followed by Nagar on 18 November. 1 November is now officially called the liberation day by the Government of Gilgit-Baltistan.

The temporary government lasted 16 days. According to scholar Yaqub Khan Bangash, it did not have much influence over the people. The Gilgit rebellion did not involve ordinary people and was mainly led by military leaders, not all of whom wanted to join Pakistan right away. Historian Ahmed Hasan Dani says that although there was little public involvement in the rebellion, support for Pakistan was strong among the people, and they clearly did not support Kashmir.

After taking Gilgit, the Gilgit Scouts and Chitral Scouts moved towards Baltistan and Ladakh and captured Skardu under the command of Col. Mata ul-Mulk by August 1948. They stopped Indian reinforcements sent to help Skardu and moved towards Kargil and Leh. Indian forces attacked in autumn 1948 to push them back from Ladakh, but Baltistan was taken by the rebels.

On 1 January 1948, India took the issue of Jammu and Kashmir to the United Nations Security Council. In April 1948, the Council passed a resolution asking Pakistan to leave all of Jammu and Kashmir and for India to reduce its forces, after which a vote would be held to decide the people's choice. However, no withdrawal ever happened. India said Pakistan had to leave first, and Pakistan said there was no guarantee India would leave after. Gilgit-Baltistan, along with the western areas called Azad Kashmir, have been under Pakistan's control ever since.

Inside Pakistan

Although the people of Gilgit-Baltistan wanted to join Pakistan after independence from Maharaja Hari Singh, Pakistan did not merge the region because of its connection to Jammu and Kashmir. For a short time after joining Pakistan, Gilgit-Baltistan was governed by Azad Kashmir, though only theoretically. In 1949, the Government of Azad Kashmir handed over control of Gilgit-Baltistan to the federal government under the Karachi Agreement. From then until 1972, Gilgit-Baltistan was governed through the Frontier Crimes Regulations, which were made for the northwest tribal regions. There was no democratic system during this time. All political and judicial power was with the Ministry of Kashmir Affairs and Northern Areas (KANA).

In 1960, elections were held for the first time under the Basic democracy system under President Ayub Khan. In 1963, Pakistan signed the Sino-Pakistani Frontier Agreement, which set its borders with China. This agreement followed the Macartney–MacDonald Line as changed by Lord Curzon in 1905, with Pakistan gaining land in the Shimshal Valley and giving up claims over the Shaksgam Valley. In 1969, a Northern Areas Advisory Council (NAAC) was created, later renamed to Northern Areas Council (NAC) in 1974 and Northern Areas Legislative Council (NALC) in 1994. But it had no real power. All law-making stayed with the KANA Ministry of Pakistan. In August 1972 Prime Minister Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto ended the FCR and merged the Gilgit Agency, Baltistan Agency, and Nagar state into one unit called "Northern Areas" and formed three districts: Gilgit, Diamer, and Baltistan. In September 1974, Bhutto announced the end of the Hunza state during a visit. In 1974 Ghizer District was created from Gilgit and Ghanche District from Baltistan (renamed Skardu), but both were later dissolved. They were re-established in 1989.

In 1984 the region's importance grew in Pakistan with the opening of the Karakoram Highway, connecting the local population more to mainland Pakistan. This better connection helped people get education in Pakistan. It also allowed political parties from Pakistan and Azad Kashmir to start branches, raising awareness about political rights in the region. According to Ershad Mahmud, these Pakistani political parties helped organise a movement for democratic rights among the people of Gilgit-Baltistan.

In 2004, a sixth district, Astore, was created from Diamer, followed by Hunza-Nagar District from Gilgit in 2008. On 29 August 2009, the Gilgit-Baltistan Empowerment and Self-Governance Order 2009 was passed by the Pakistani cabinet and signed by President Asif Ali Zardari. This order gave self-rule to the people of Gilgit-Baltistan by creating, among other things, an elected Gilgit-Baltistan Legislative Assembly and Gilgit-Baltistan Council. Gilgit-Baltistan thus had a status like a province without being part of Pakistan. In 2015, Hunza-Nagar was split into Hunza and Nagar districts while Kharmang and Shigar districts were separated from Skardu District. In July 2018, the 2009 ordinance was replaced by the Gilgit-Baltistan Order 2018, which gave more powers to the Gilgit-Baltistan Assembly, including control over tourism, minerals, and hydropower. It also ended the role of KANA. In 2020 the Imran Khan Government said it would give Gilgit-Baltistan provisional provincial status, and Pakistani political parties agreed to change the constitution to make Gilgit-Baltistan a province.

Some Kashmiri groups, like the Jammu and Kashmir Liberation Front, consider Gilgit-Baltistan part of a future independent state. India claims Gilgit-Baltistan as part of the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir and says it is "an integral part of the country [India]."

Geography

Main article: Geography of Gilgit-Baltistan

Gilgit-Baltistan is home to some of the highest mountain ranges in the world, including the Karakoram, the Hindu Kush, and the western Himalayas. These mountains have very tall peaks and big glaciers. One famous peak is K2, which is one of the highest mountains on Earth.

The area also has wide, high plateaus like the Deosai Plateau, which is very cold and has no trees. Many rivers, such as the Indus, flow through this region, and people live in the valleys beside these rivers.

Fauna

The fauna of Gilgit-Baltistan includes animals like the snow leopard, Himalayan brown bear, Himalayan black bear, and many types of birds. The region has many protected areas where these animals live safely.

Climate

The weather in Gilgit-Baltistan changes a lot because of the tall mountains. Some places get a lot of rain, while others are very dry. In summer, some towns get very hot during the day but very cold at night.

Climate Change Effects

Main article: 2022 Gilgit-Baltistan floods

Climate change has caused problems in this region, with changes in rain patterns. In August 2022, flooding hurt many villages and made people leave their homes.

Government

Main article: Government of Gilgit-Baltistan

Gilgit-Baltistan is a region that is governed by Pakistan but is not officially part of the country. Because of this, it does not take part in Pakistan’s regular government matters. Pakistan has kept Gilgit-Baltistan separate to support its ideas about solving the whole Kashmir question.

Administration

Gilgit-Baltistan is not a full province or state. It has a special kind of government setup. This setup is decided by rules made in 2018. There is a group called the Gilgit-Baltistan Assembly, which has thirty-three members. Some of these seats are saved for women and for people with special skills. The leader of the area, called the Governor, is chosen by Pakistan’s President. The leader of the local government, called the Chief Minister, is chosen by the Assembly. The Chief Minister works with a group of leaders called a cabinet. There is also a Gilgit-Baltistan Council that helps connect the local government with Pakistan’s government.

Subdivisions

Main articles: List of divisions in Gilgit-Baltistan, List of districts in Gilgit-Baltistan, and List of tehsils of Gilgit-Baltistan

As of 2024, Gilgit-Baltistan is split into three main parts called divisions. These are Baltistan, Diamer, and Gilgit. These divisions are then split into ten smaller areas called districts and thirty-four even smaller areas called tehsils. The main towns where people handle important jobs are Gilgit, Skardu, and Chilas.

Law enforcement and security

Gilgit-Baltistan Chief Court is the main court in the area. People can challenge its decisions in the Supreme Appellate Court Gilgit-Baltistan. From there, decisions can be taken to the Supreme Court of Pakistan.

The safety of Gilgit-Baltistan is handled by the Gilgit-Baltistan Police, a group of helpers called the Gilgit Baltistan Scouts, and a part of the Pakistan Army known as the Northern Light Infantry.

Economy

The economy of Gilgit-Baltistan relies on the historic Silk Road trade route, farming, and tourism. People grow wheat, corn, barley, and fruits, and many visit the area for trekking and mountaineering. Since 2018, efforts have been made to grow the IT sector. The region has big plans for hydropower, including a large dam at Bunji and the Diamer-Bhasha Dam, which will be one of the largest in Pakistan.

Gilgit-Baltistan has many beautiful mountains, lakes, and valleys that attract visitors. Popular spots include K2 Basecamp, Deosai, and Fairy Meadows. The area is also home to five very tall mountains, including K-2, the second highest mountain in the world. Gilgit and Skardu are the main centers for mountain climbing adventures.

Transportation

Main article: Provincial Highways of Gilgit-Baltistan

Roads

The N-35 National Highway, also called the Karakoram Highway (KKH), is the main road linking Gilgit-Baltistan to the rest of the country. Built in 1978, it runs from Hasan Abdal in Punjab to the Khunjerab Pass, connecting Gilgit to Islamabad, the country's capital. From Khunjerab Pass, it continues into China and becomes China National Highway 314. Out of its total length of 887 km, 516 km are in Gilgit-Baltistan. Another road, the 240 km long N-15 National Highway, links Chilas in Diamer with Mansehra in Hazara Division through Babusar Pass, and serves as an alternate route to N-35. Work is underway on the N-140 National Highway, which will connect Gilgit–Shandur Road with Shandur–Chitral Road via Shandur Pass. It is expected to open by December 2026, linking Gilgit to Chitral and other northern cities in Pakistan. Skardu is linked to the Karakoram Highway through the S-1 Strategic Highway (also called Baltistan Highway) at Juglot. Beyond Skardu, the Skardu–Kargil Road leads toward the Line of Control (LoC), but its last part has been closed since 1948 because Kargil is now in Indian-administered Ladakh. Currently, the road ends at the village of Olding.

Before the Karakoram Highway was built in 1978, Gilgit-Baltistan was very hard to reach because of tough terrain and few roads. The Karakoram Highway now connects Gilgit to Tashkurgan Town, Kashgar, China via Sust, the customs and health-check point on the Gilgit-Baltistan side, and the Khunjerab Pass, the world's highest paved border crossing at 4,693 metres (15,397 ft). The trip from Rawalpindi/Islamabad to Gilgit takes about 20 to 24 hours. The Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO) runs bus and jeep services to major places, lakes, and glaciers in the area.

Air

Skardu International Airport is one of the two airports in Gilgit-Baltistan. It has domestic flights from Karachi, Lahore, and Islamabad, and since 2023, international flights from Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Gilgit Airport also has domestic flights from across the country. Skardu International Airport is next to Qadri airbase, which is used by the Northern Air Command of the Pakistan Air Force.

Railways

A railway through the region has been suggested; see Khunjerab Railway for more information.

Demographics

Gilgit-Baltistan has a population of 1,709,049 as of 2023. About 20% live in the cities of Gilgit and Skardu, while most people live in rural areas. The region is home to many different groups of people who speak various languages and follow diverse traditions.

The main languages spoken include Balti, Shina, and Brushaski. Urdu is the official language used for communication between different groups, and English is also used in schools. Arabic is used for religious purposes. The population is entirely Muslim, with a mix of different groups living together in various districts.

Culture

Main article: Culture of Gilgit-Baltistan

Gilgit-Baltistan has many different cultures, ethnic groups, languages, and backgrounds. Some important cultural events are the Shandoor Polo Festival, Babusar Polo Festival, and Jashn-e-Baharan or the Harvest Time Festival (Navroz). Traditional dances include the Old Man Dance, where people wear old-style clothes, the Cow Boy Dance (Payaloo), and the Sword Dance, where dancers show skills with swords.

A popular dish in Gilgit-Baltistan is rdoong balay, a stew made of ground wheat, potatoes, peas, and spices. It is eaten on the holiday of Eid al-Fitr.

Rock art and petroglyphs

There are more than 50,000 pieces of rock art and inscriptions along the Karakoram Highway in Gilgit-Baltistan, mainly between Hunza and Shatial. These carvings were made by travelers, traders, and locals who passed through the area. The oldest carvings date back to between 5000 and 1000 BCE, showing animals, people, and hunting scenes. These carvings were made with stone tools and have a thick surface that shows their age.

Education

Main article: Education in Gilgit-Baltistan

In 2002, a university called Karakoram International University opened in Gilgit, with smaller campuses in Hunza, Chilas, Skardu, and Ghizer. In 2017, the Skardu campus became its own university, called the University of Baltistan. By 2024, the region had many schools, including 13 intermediate colleges, 14 degree colleges, 2 special schools for students, and many primary, middle, high, and higher secondary schools.

Sports

Many people in this region enjoy playing different sports. The most popular sport is Polo. Almost every big valley has a place where polo games are played. During the summer, both locals and visitors come to watch polo matches. A special polo tournament happens every year in Shandur, where teams from Gilgit and Chitral compete.

Other favorite sports include football, cricket, and volleyball, which is mostly played in winter. With more facilities and beautiful landscapes, activities like mountaineering and trekking are becoming more popular. Samina Baig from Hunza was one of the few Pakistani women to climb Mount Everest when she was just 21. Hassan Sadpara from Skardu was the first Pakistani to climb six very tall mountains, including Everest and five tall mountains in Gilgit-Baltistan.