Jeju Province

Jeju Province is the southernmost province of South Korea. It includes eight islands where people live and 55 islands with no people. Some of these islands are Marado, Udo, the Chuja Archipelago, and the largest island in the country, Jeju Island. The province is in the Korea Strait. To the northwest is the Korean Peninsula, to the east is Japan, and to the west is China.

Jeju Province has two main cities: Jeju City in the north and Seogwipo in the south of Jeju Island. The highest point in South Korea, the shield volcano Hallasan, is here. Both Jeju and Korean are official languages, and most people can speak both.

Humans first lived on Jeju Island between 8,000 and 10,000 years ago. The earliest known kingdom there was the Tamna Kingdom. Over time, it became a tributary state of different Korean kingdoms and was later ruled by Goryeo, the Mongol Empire, and Joseon. After Japan's surrender in World War II in 1945, the islands became part of South Korea. In 2006, Jeju was made a Special Self-Governing Province.

History

Early history

See also: Tamna § Historical and archaeological records

The first known polity on the island was the kingdom of Tamna.

According to the legend, three demigods came from Samseong, which was said to be on the slopes of Hallasan and started the Kingdom of Tamna.

It was said that three brothers, including Ko-hu, were recognized by the court of Silla, and given important jobs. But we do not know when this happened. This may have been during the time of the Three Kingdoms (Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla) on the Korean mainland.

Taejo, the founder of Goryeo, tried to make Tamna follow Goryeo's rules. Tamna refused, so Goryeo sent soldiers. Ko ja-gyeon, the leader of Tamna, agreed to follow Goryeo in 938 and sent his son to Goryeo. In 1105, Goryeo changed the island's name to "Tamna-gun" and sent officials there.

Tamna became Tamna-county in 1153. During the time of Gojong of Goryeo, Tamna was renamed "Jeju", meaning "province across the sea".

In 1271, General Kim T'ong-jŏng escaped to Jeju and built the Hangpadu Fortress. But within two years, his group was defeated.

After the Mongol invasions, the Mongol Empire set up a base on Jeju Island with the Goryeo army in (Tamna prefectures). After the Sambyeolcho Rebellion was stopped, Tamna prefectures were used for grazing horses until 1356.

In the 15th century, Jeju Island came under the strong control of the Joseon dynasty. For almost 200 years, people on Jeju Island were not allowed to travel. During the Joseon period, Jeju was used for breeding horses and for sending people away as punishment.

Modern history

Japanese occupation

In 1910, Japan annexed Korea, including Jeju. This brought hard times for the people, and many had to leave for work. People from Jeju took part in the Korean independence movement against Japanese rule. In 1931–32, haenyeo ("sea women") from six villages protested against the Japanese-controlled Divers Association. The protests grew until 17,000 people were involved, and over 100 were arrested.

Jeju uprising, 1948

Main article: Jeju uprising

From April 1948 to May 1949, the South Korean government tried to stop an attempted uprising on the island. The uprising began because of elections planned for only the southern part of Korea, which some people thought would make the division worse. Fighters from the Workers' Party of South Korea attacked police and others on Jeju Island.

The old government building was burned down in September 1948 and a new one was built in December 1952.

In 2008, the bodies of victims were found in a mass grave near Jeju International Airport.

21st century

On June 27, 2007, Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes became a UNESCO World Heritage site.

On November 11, 2018, it was announced that North Korean leader Kim Jong Un might visit Jeju during his trip to South Korea.

In November 2020, South Korean archeologists found a 900-year-old lost slipway off the coast of Sinchangli. They also found coins and ceramics from the Northern Song dynasty.

Jeju Naval Base

Main articles: Jeju Naval Base and Jeju Naval Base controversy

In 1993, South Korea started planning a naval base on Jeju Island. In 2007, Gangjeong village was chosen as the site. Building started in 2007 and finished in 2016. The base was meant to be a place for both military and civilian ships. Some people on Jeju and others worried that it would harm the environment. They protested and tried to stop the building, which caused delays.

Logo

The official Jeju logo uses different colors to represent parts of the island. The black script stands for the island's basalt rock, showing that Jeju's traditions are important. The green color represents the natural beauty of Hallasan and the island's environment. Blue shows the sea that surrounds Jeju, and orange stands for the hopeful future and values of the province.

Administrative divisions

Jeju Province has had many changes in its government over time. In 1273, leaders from the Yuan dynasty took control of the island. Later, during the Joseon period, Jeju became part of the larger government.

Today, Jeju Province has two main cities: Jeju City and Seogwipo. Most people live and work in these cities. In 2006, Jeju became a special self-governing province, giving it more control over its own matters.

Jeju has special symbols. Its flower is the Rhododendron, its tree is the camphor laurel (Cinnamomum camphora), and its bird is the Woodpecker.

Jeju is represented by 3 constituencies in the National Assembly of South Korea: Jeju-gap, Jeju-eul (in Jeju City) and Seogwipo.

• Provincial flower: Rhododendron (Rhododendron Weyrichii / Max (Chamkkot))
• Provincial tree: Camphor laurel (Cinnamomum camphora siebold / Noknamu)
• Provincial bird: Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos quelpartensis)

Geography

See also: Jeju Island

Jeju Province is the southernmost part of South Korea. It has eight islands where people live and 55 islands that are not lived on. The biggest island is called Jeju Island. The province is in the Korea Strait. The Korean Peninsula is to the northwest, Japan is to the east, and China is to the west.

There are two main cities in Jeju Province: Jeju City, the capital on the northern half of Jeju Island, and Seogwipo on the southern half.

Society and culture

See also: Jeju people § Culture

Dol hareubang

Main article: Dol hareubang

Dol hareubang are special stone statues placed near gates. They were believed to protect against bad spirits and were linked to family traditions. Today, they are important symbols of Jeju Island. We do not know exactly when people first made them, but similar statues existed about 500 years ago. There are 47 of these old statues left, and newer versions are popular with visitors.

Doldam

Main article: Doldam

Doldam are special walls made from volcanic rocks on Jeju Island. These walls are built without using any glue, just the shape of the rocks and gravity, and they can stay strong even in big winds. People use these walls for many purposes around the island.

Bangsatap

Main article: Bangsatap

Bangsatap are special doldam structures made to keep away bad luck and evil spirits. They are usually about 2 to 3 metres tall and often have a small sculpture on top. These were placed in different parts of the island based on beliefs about where bad luck might happen.

Jeongnang

Main article: Jeongnang

Jeongnang are traditional wooden gates at the entrance of homes on Jeju. They help neighbours know where the family members are. Lowering the poles on one side shows the family is home, while raising them shows they are away, with all three raised meaning they will be gone for a long time. These gates are now rare as more people live in apartments, but they are still used in some rural areas.

Matriarchical family structure and haenyeo

Main article: Haenyeo

Jeju Island has a special family tradition where women often had important roles, especially in places like Udo and Mara. This is most clear among the haenyeo, women who spent their lives diving deep into the sea without special equipment to collect food. It was thought that women could handle the cold water better. Today, only a few older women continue this tradition because life on the island has changed a lot.

Demographics

Jeju Province is the least crowded area in South Korea. In 2020, about 672,948 people lived there. Only around 4,000 people lived on smaller islands such as the Chuja Islands and Udo. The whole area of Jeju Province is 1,849 km² (714 sq mi).

Religion

In Jeju, people have different beliefs. In 2024, about 52% of people did not follow any particular religion. Around 19% followed Buddhism, 17% followed Protestantism, and 11% followed Catholicism. A small number, about 2%, had other beliefs.

Refugees on Jeju Island

Main article: Refugees on Jeju Island

In 2018, about 500 people who were escaping a big problem in Yemen came to Jeju Island. This brought some worries and disagreements among the people living there.

Sports

Jeju Island has hosted big international sports events. In 2002, it helped hold the FIFA World Cup, with games at Jeju World Cup Stadium. Later, in 2014, Jeju City hosted the Women’s World Boxing Championships at Halla Gymnasium.

Jeju has one professional football team, Jeju SK, which used to be called Jeju United. They came in second place in the K League once.

Cuisine

Jeju Island is the farthest south and biggest island away from the Korean peninsula. It does not have much fresh water, so people there grow grains like millet, barnyard millet, buckwheat, and barley instead of rice. Traditional meals from Jeju usually have japgokbap, a bowl of steamed grains, with salty dried fish called jaban and simple soups made from soybean paste, like baechuguk with Napa cabbage or muguk with radish. The food uses basic ingredients and tastes salty.

People in Jeju often eat raw seafood, called hoe, as part of their meals. Because the weather is warm, they do not need to make much kimchi for winter, unlike other places. Popular dishes include porridge made with fish, seafood, seaweed, or mushrooms, like jeonbokjuk with abalone, okdomjuk with red tilefish, and gingijuk made with small crabs.

Another special food from Jeju is gamgyul, a type of orange similar to Mandarin oranges or tangerines. The island is also known for its black pigs, which are valued for their tasty, chewy meat without the strong smell of regular pork. Horse meat is also a special food there.

Myths and legends

Jeju Province has many interesting myths and legends, called yetmal. These stories are shared by speaking and listening, and they often teach us lessons or share wisdom.

One famous legend is the Ahunahopgol legend, which tells us about times when strong leaders were hard to find. Another is the malmurlee legend, about a very strong hero who couldn't change the island's challenges.

A well-known myth is about Seolmundae Halmang, a very strong grandmother who could step from Sunrise Peak to Guan Tal island in one step, and to Hallasan in two steps. She had many children and helped build Hallasan. In one story, she fell into a soup she was making for her children. Her family learned what had happened later.

Economy

See also: Port of Jeju

Jeju's economy has always depended on farming and fishing. Today, tourism is very important. About ten million people visit Jeju each year. Most come from nearby Korea, but many tourists also come from China.

In 2006, Jeju produced goods and services worth about 8.5 trillion won, or roughly US$8.5 billion. The Korean internet company Daum Communications is based here. Jeju is also a place for big international meetings, like the World Scout Conference in 2008. Since 2010, Jeju has worked to become a popular spot for meetings and events from around the world.

Tourism

Tourism is very important for Jeju's economy. In 2018, it was reported that about 73.7% of the island's GRDP came from services. Jeju's mild weather, natural beauty, and beaches make it a popular tourist spot for people from South Korea and other parts of East Asia. The island is sometimes called "South Korea's Hawaii." The South Korean government supports tourism through the Jeju Tourism Organization.

Popular places to visit on the island include Cheonjeyeon and Cheonjiyeon waterfalls, Hallasan, Hyeobje cave, and Hyeongje island. Tourists can enjoy activities like golf, horse riding, fishing, and mountain climbing. Depending on the season, Jeju holds festivals such as a penguin swimming contest in winter, a cherry blossom festival in spring, a beach festival in summer, and the Jeju horse festival in autumn. Most tourists travel to and from the island through Jeju International Airport, and many rent cars to explore. Local products like Jeju's special tile fish and mandarin oranges, along with souvenirs and duty-free shopping, are popular with visitors.

Jeju was chosen as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature through the New 7 Wonders of Nature campaign. The campaign had many votes, and the top seven wonders were announced on 11/11/11.

Museums on the island include the Nexon Computer Museum.

Tourism

See also: Tourism in South Korea

In 1962, the South Korean government created the Korean National Tourism Corporation (KNTC) to manage tourism. It was later renamed the Korean National Tourism Organization (KNTO). Tourism helps bring income to the country, even though Korea doesn't have many natural resources. In Jeju, tourism has grown a lot and helps the economy. Jeju Island is a warm weather destination for people looking for beautiful beaches.

The island has about 660,000 people but welcomes 15,000,000 visitors each year. English isn't widely spoken in Jeju, and the local dialect is quite different from standard Korean. In the past, most foreign visitors came from China, but this changed after some security concerns. Despite this, Jeju remains a favorite vacation spot in Asia. Visitors can stay for up to 90 days without a visa, and there are plans to build a second international airport by 2035 to handle more visitors. The current airport is very busy, serving 30 million passengers a year, which is more than it was designed for. There are also plans to add more direct flights to cities like Tokyo, Osaka, Beijing, Shanghai, and Taipei.

While tourism brings economic benefits, it also causes problems for local residents. Many businesses are owned by outsiders, and there are issues like beach pollution, traffic, and using too much groundwater.

Because of tourism, keeping beaches clean is a big challenge. The local government wants Jeju to be carbon-free by 2030. Almost half of all electric cars in South Korea are registered in Jeju.

Jeju also has a small technology area. In 2005, the Jeju Science Park was created for technology companies. It has attracted 117 IT and biotech companies, including the Daum Kakao Corporation headquarters.

Jeju became more well-known after it was mentioned in the 2021 Netflix series Squid Game and in two episodes of the 2022 Netflix series Extraordinary Attorney Woo.

Tourist attractions

See also: Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes

Hallim Park is one of the oldest and most popular attractions on Jeju. It is located on the west coast.

There is an annual fire festival on the island that comes from a custom of clearing harmful insects and old grass in villages during winter. The festival is held on the fifteenth day of the first lunar month. Wood is piled up (called dal-gip) and burned at moonrise while people pray for good harvests and make wishes. Traditional Jeju food is eaten at the festival site. This festival began in 1997 and has become a major event in Jeju. It takes place in Saebyeol Oreum in Bongseong ri, Aewol Eup. It is about 25 minutes by car from Jeju International Airport.

Saebyeol oreum is a complex volcano. It has a horseshoe-shaped crater that is wide and slightly split. It rises high, with small peaks forming an oval shape from the south peak to the northwest. It is 519.3 meters (1,704 ft) above sea level, 119 m (390 ft) tall, and has a circumference of 2,713 m (8,901 ft) and an area of 522,216 m² (0.201629 sq mi). Saebyeol oreum is a middle-sized oreum among the 360 on Jeju Island. It is named for its bright, star-like appearance.

Olle refers to the paths between houses and public roads in the local dialect.

The Jeju Olle Trail, also called Jeju Olle Gil, is a long walking path on Jeju Island. Most of it follows the coastline and has 21 connected main paths, 5 major spurs, and a short spur to Jeju Airport. The paths are about 16 kilometers (9.9 mi) long on average and total 404 km (251 mi). The exact length and locations change as trails are updated.

The paths go through small villages, along beaches, through farms and orchards, into forests, and up oreums (low parasitic volcanoes) across Jeju Island.

Manjanggul is one of the longest lava tubes in the world. Manjang Cave, located in Donggimnyeong-ri, Gujwa-eup, North Jeju, 30 km (19 mi) east of Jeju City, was named a Natural Monument on March 28, 1970. The temperature inside the cave stays between 11°C and 21°C, making it comfortable year-round.

The cave is important for science because rare species live there. Lava tubes like those in limestone karst exist in many volcanic areas, but Geomunoreum is special because of its length, volume, complex passages, well-preserved features, abundant formations, ease of access, and scientific value.

Sangumburi Crater is the crater of an extinct volcano. Unlike Halla-san and Songsan Ilch'ubong, it exploded quickly but didn’t produce much lava or form a large cone. This type of eruption is called maru in Korean, and Sangumburi is the only one of its kind in the country, making it Natural Monument #263. The crater is 100 m (330 ft) deep and about 350 m (1,150 ft) across. Over 400 species of plants and animals live inside the crater.

Visitors can walk around part of the rim, but not down into the crater. A paved path leads to a viewing area with a small pavilion and several viewpoints. The park also has traditional Jeju-style graves with stone walls and small stone figures to guard against evil spirits.

Seongsan Ilchulbong, also called 'Sunrise Peak', is a volcanic tuff cone formed by underwater eruptions about 5,000 years ago. Located on the eastern coast of Jeju Island, it looks like a giant ancient castle. It is 182 meters high, has a preserved bowl-shaped crater, and shows diverse inner structures from sea cliffs.

Oedolgae is a 20-meter-tall rock pillar in Sammaebong, Seogwipo. It was formed 1.5 million years ago by a volcanic eruption. Pine trees grow naturally at the top. According to legend, an old woman turned into a rock after waiting a long time for her husband who went fishing and never returned. It is called 'halmang bawi' meaning grandmother rock.

Hallasan is a mountain in the center of Jeju Island, spreading east and west. Its east face is steep, the north side is gentle, and the east and west form a flat, wide highland. Hallasan is a dormant volcano from volcanic activity during the quaternary period of the Cenozoic era. It is mostly covered in basalt. At the top is a crater and Baeknok Lake. The mountain has alpine plants and about 1,800 species of flora. It also has lush natural forests and large grasslands.

The 43-kilometer (27 mi) Road 5.16 crosses the eastern part of the mountain from Jeju City to Seogwipo and is considered one of the best tourist roads in Korea. Along this road are attractions like Sancheondan and Seongpanak.

The 37-kilometer-long (23 mi) Road 110 crosses the western part of the mountain from Jeju-si to Jungmun. It passes the Eoseungsang Reservoir, a source of water for Jeju residents. The 99 Passes are said to be unlucky for kings and tigers because they are one short of 100. It also passes Youngsil Giam (Youngsil Grotesque Rocks). It is possible to climb to Wetse Oreum along Eorimok Trail and Youngsil Trail, and to the top along Seongpanak Trail and Kwaneumsa Temple Trail.

Udo, also called U-island, is 3.5 kilometers (2.2 miles) off the northeast coast of Seongsan-ri. It is the largest of the islands in Jeju-si. Udo looks like a cow lying down, hence its name. The whole island is a lava plateau and a fertile flatland producing sweet potatoes, garlic, and peanuts. There is a parasitic cone called shoi meori oreum in the southeast.

Jungmun Saekdal Beach is in Saekdal-dong, Seogwipo. It is near the hotel area with Sinla Jeju hotel, Lotte hotel, and Jeju Hana hotel all within 2 kilometers. Jungmun Saekdal Beach has a special shape, facing north with steady water levels up to 200 meters from shore. Many big and small waves form under the influence of the Maparam (the north wind in Korean), making it popular for surfing in summer.

Aqua Planet Jeju in Seogwipo is the largest public aquarium in South Korea. It features Korea's largest tank of 5,300 m³ (1,400,000 US gal) called "The Sea of Jeju," which is very popular.

Jeju has three UNESCO World Heritage sites and is full of museums, theme parks, horses, mountains, lava tube caves, and waterfalls with clear blue ocean beaches. The Haenyeo (Jeju female divers) collect oysters, abalone, clams, seaweed, and other sea life, and their history is shown at the Haenyeo museum on the island.

Jeju Island is one of the most popular places for surfing in Korea and is where Korean surfing began. Famous beaches for surfing include Weoljung Beach and Jungmun Beach, which has the first surfing club in Korea, started in 1995.

There are small islands near Jeju Island that visitors can reach by boat, such as Udo, Gapado, and Marado. Udo is known for its peanut ice cream and boat tours.

Places of interest

• Love Land (South Korea), an outdoor sculpture park with a special theme
• Manjanggul Lava Tube, 8 km (5 mile) long with a 1 km (1000 yard) part open to the public
• Seongsan Ilchulbong or "Sunrise Peak", a volcanic tuff cone and crater
• Hallasan, the island's main peak
• Mount Songaksan, a shore cliff and flat grassland with an easy walking trail
• Seongeup Folk Village
• Jeju Teddy's Bear Museum
• Figure Museum Jeju
• Jeju Maze Park
• Mysterious Road
• Water Falls (Jeongbang. Cheonjiyeon. Cheonjeyeon)
• O'Sulloc Tea Museum
• Beach (Jungmun. Hyeopjae)
• Ecoland Train Trip Theme Parks
• Natural Recreation Forest Jeolmul
• Jonjaamji, Korean Buddhist pagoda

Visa policy

Jeju has its own visa rules that are different from the rest of South Korea. Most passport holders (except those from Afghanistan, Cuba, Ghana, Iraq, Kosovo, Libya, Nigeria, Palestine, North Korea, Sudan, Syria, Somalia, and Yemen) can stay in Jeju for 30 days without a visa, even if they normally need one for South Korea. Domestic flights from the mainland don’t require ID, but people entering the mainland from Jeju must bring identification like a National ID Card, Jeju Resident Card, South Korean drivers licence issued by National Police Agency or Jeju Municipal Police Agency or a passport with the proper visa or visa-free passport or passport with a valid United States visa.

So, all ordinary passport holders except the following can stay visa-free for 30 days in Jeju Province, even if they normally need a visa for South Korea:

•  Afghanistan
•  Bangladesh
•  Cameroon
•  Cuba
•  Egypt
•  Gambia
•  Ghana
•  Iran
•  Iraq
•  Kosovo
•  Kyrgyzstan
•  Myanmar
•    Nepal
•  Nigeria
•  Pakistan
•  Palestine
•  Senegal
•  Somalia
•  Sri Lanka
•  Sudan
•  Syria
•  Uzbekistan
•  Yemen

Tourists from China don’t need a visa to visit Jeju, unlike the rest of South Korea. In the 2010s, they started visiting on special tours to get a South Korean driver's license. The test is similar to China’s but easier, forms are in many languages, and a South Korean license allows an International Drivers License.

Education

Jeju Province has many schools for children and young people. North London Collegiate School Jeju is a school for boys and girls aged 4 to 19, and it is in Seogwipo. There is also the Korean International School Jeju, for boys and girls from kindergarten to 12th grade.

Other schools include Branksome Hall Asia, a school just for girls, and St. Johnsbury Academy JeJu, which opened recently and offers education for boys and girls from kindergarten to 12th grade. Jeju also has universities such as Jeju National University, Jeju International University, and Cheju Halla University, along with other colleges and vocational schools. The Korea Polytechnics Jeju Campus is in Jeju City.

Health

In 2002, scarlet fever was found in children living in Jeju Province. Scientists studied this using health insurance records. They found that over 2,000 children had the illness. It was more common in boys and in children under two years old. The number of cases went down from 2002 to 2016.

Studies also show that Jeju Province has many cases of a serious illness called severe fever with thrombocytopenia syndrome (SFTS). Between 2014 and 2018, doctors looked at people in Jeju who had SFTS. The most common signs of this illness were high fever, muscle aches, and diarrhea. Some people unfortunately did not survive.

Utilities

Jeju Island gets its electricity from power plants on the island and from connections to plants on the mainland through the HVDC Haenam–Cheju. The Korea Electric Power Corporation (KEPCO) manages the power supply.

In 2012, leaders from Hawaii and South Korea agreed to share ideas about Smart Grid technology. Jeju started a Smart Grid project in some homes, and South Korea plans to use this to build a nationwide Smart Grid by 2030.

Transportation

Jeju City is the main place for getting around Jeju Province. It has the island's only airport, Jeju International Airport. Many people fly between Jeju and Seoul every year.

The port of Jeju is the biggest port on the island. It helps people and goods move in and out. You can also take a ferry from Busan to Jeju. The trip can take between 3 and 12 hours.

Jeju has buses to help people get around, but there are no trains. Some people have talked about building a train tunnel to connect Jeju to the rest of South Korea, but this has not happened yet.

The buses on Jeju Island are organized by color: red, green, and blue. Red buses connect important places. Blue buses travel between cities and towns. Green buses, also called ‘village buses’, have shorter routes through smaller villages and towns. There are also special buses that go from the airport to Seogwipo.

Media

Jeju Island has five local newspapers: Jeju Ilbo, Jemin Ilbo, Halla Ilbo, Seogwipo News, and Jeju Maeil. There is one printed English-language newspaper called The Jeju Weekly. Another news website, JejuWorldWide.com, shares daily news and events and started in early 2013.

The island has several TV and radio stations, including Jeju Free International City Broadcasting System (which works with SBS), KBS Jeju, and Jeju MBC, along with KCTV Jeju.

Twinned regions

Jeju has friendships with many places around the world, including islands and other areas. Some of these friends are:

• – Hainan Province
• – Okinawa Prefecture
• – Bali Province
• – Sakhalin Oblast
• – Aileu Municipality
• – State of Hawaii
• – Autonomous Region of Madeira
• – Autonomous Region of Sardinia
• – State of California